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Willow River State Park
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High Road to China 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on May 5, 2009
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Description 

The new enduro line here at Willow. Comparable to "Rejection and Mercy" and "Business Time". Pull through the crux in the first large roof. Then traverse right at the huge hueco (6th bolt) on great solid rock. Then head straight up at the break in the second tier. Climb with caution from here to the anchors, this is a new route, stuff is still breaking off.


Location 

Start on "The Mono Route" just right of the "Rejection and Mercy" crack, break right after the sixth bolt.


Protection 

15 bolts and a set of anchors. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



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By AntVicino
May 5, 2009

Dang you, Chris! Stealing my FA... It's unlikely that I will ever forgive you!

Good job, though! Another awesome Willow line..

By Ryan C.
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 2, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

It is much cleaner now. Most handholds should be good. If you get crazy with your feet you will most likely find loose rock (so make sure people are not in the river below you while you are on it). This is a great line and the last four bolts to the anchors will test your endurance.

Also it can be interesting to figure out the direction of travel at one point, just take the time. Well worthwhile of a climb.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 1, 2013

without some quickdraw jestery, this route has terrible rope drag, as OMG-i-cannot-even-be-lowered rope drag. yea, OMG, bro. OMG.

here's the beta to keep things drama free:

-bring a stick clip

-climb to the first bolt, go in direct, then stick clip draws on the bolts in the middle of roof (long petzl or bd draws work best). make sure your rope is through the first draw in the roof, that way you can lower off that bolt and remove the first bolt on the route (the bolt that is just 15 ft or so above the ground). removing the first bolt is key to reducing rope drag.

-once you are on lead, be sure to clip a double-length draw (or a normal length runner) on the bolt just above the roof. from here to the anchors,the remaining bolts all take normal length draws.