High Plains Drifter
|Type: ||Boulder, 35'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+ [details]|
|FA: ||Dale Bard, c. '80's|
|Page Views: ||7,495|
|Submitted By: ||Tim Steele on Jan 14, 2007|
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Pouya on his send of High Plains Drifter
Start with sharp patina crimps and make some long pulls slightly up and right to gain a couple of slopers. Make a dynamic move off the slopes to gain better holds and an easy, but airy summit.
This problem is a North American classic and a must do for the visiting boulderer.
As a note of trivia, John Sherman referred to this problem as a benchmark standard for V6 in the first edition of his Hueco guide when he initially introduced the V-scale. It has since crept up in grade.
Center of the north Face.
Pads and spotters
|Comments on High Plains Drifter
|By Tommy Klinefelter|
Nov 10, 2008
In reply to Sherman calling this problem a benchmark for V6, I think he was referring to Change of Heart, just left. Until the mid 90's, most people (including the lone guidebook at the time) had the two problem names reversed, until Bard finally clarified the mistake.
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: V7 7A+
A word of note as to the V-scale.
The standards for V6 from Shermans Hueco guide with some thoughts
- Left El Murray...impossible, well not quite but very hard, now it is impossible
- Center El Murry...easy, wel now it is impossible
- Bucket Roof...By the time the guide book was out, "NO TOUCHY"
- High Plains Drifter...Regardless of which he was refering to HPD or CoH, harder than Center easier than Left
- Pinch Overhang (Horsetooth Resivor)...I always thought this was supposed to be V5
Some people could just switch my opinion on Left and Center and it would still look pretty much the same.
|By Justin Edl|
Mar 10, 2009
LeeAB, AFAIK Pinch is considered V5 if you jump start it, but V6 if you stert with your feet on, dynoing to the lip instead of jumping off the ground.
As for the V6 rating of HPD, I have a friend who claims that this thing used to be V6 but holds have deteriorated/polished/broken over time and thus he claims that the problem now fits the standard for V7. Is that true? Awesome info/discussion guys!
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 25, 2009
rating: V7 7A+
I would have guessed that Sherman, with his taste for and knowledge of history would have jumped, of course I guess you'd have to ask him, he says he is arthritic so it could have been that he had a really hard time getting his foot up on the lip to mantle. After all as originally conceived and stated the rating system is based off of him and guaranteed 100% accurate as long as you have the same height, ape index, weight and medical issues.
As far as holds changing over the years, I first did the problem about 10 years ago and as far as I can tell it really has not changed in that time except that the holds are greasier. Of course with the grainy nature of some of the holds in the second half of the problem I would believe it if some of them had crumbled over the years.
|By Kent Dunham|
May 28, 2009
I definitely think this route is a solid standard for V7. One of the unfortunate things about an ultra-classic like High Plains is that with all that traffic, the pressure to spray down the grade is high. If this route were less known or in a lesser traveled area it would be the benchmark V7 for the area.
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V6 7A
10 years ago there was a good crystal on the left hand sloping edge at the crux that made the "surf" crux move easier.
I would tend to agree that it was probably stiff V6 back then - and is probably soft V7 now.
Regardless of the grade, however, what matters is the quality. And this is, IMHO, one of the greatest boulder problems in the world. Period.
Sep 1, 2013
the surf crux? I thought the driveby was the harder part...thats the part that I finally stuck after falling off a few dozen times :D