|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Jan 2, 2007|
|Comments on High Plains Drifter||Add Comment|
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From: New Paltz
May 31, 2014
We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!
We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came about 30 feet below the belay with a tricky 9/9+ sidepull over a bulge in the corner, and then working back right a little from there. Pro was pretty good for this move, and PG up to that point, but there is no pro above the bulge until the belay, 8ish, R/X. Belay at a large overhang capping the corner. I think White Rose goes straight over the roof here.
P2 (I think this matches Williams' book) We went right, following a well-protected, cool and exposed hand traverse directly under the overhang (7+?) to where a sort of shattered-looking flake leads over the roof (really just a bulge at that point) diagonaling right (9/9+). (it may be that we intercepted Josh's description above at this point, but I don't think so.) This turns out to be a really cool feature leading upward for maybe 30-40', the edge of the flake incredibly sharp. This sadly ends, and then you have to do a bit of weirdness stepping out right on some slopers and then back left into the base of a brushy corner and cramped belay.
P3 Step very awkwardly left around the corner, either under or over a little bush, and then head up into the short right-facing corner about 6' left of the brushy one you just departed. At the top of this grab a very scary-looking shattered horn and step around left onto the face above, 10a PG/R, climb up to another overlap and mantel, 9-, and the top. Liberal use of runners (or even double ropes) would be nice in the corner, the edge of which is razor sharp.
Gear up to a #3 camalot. The P2 hand traverse gobbles 1/2-1" gear, more hand size stuff for the layback flake above.
Great route, although pleased to have been following this one!