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High Plains Drifter 
New Frontier 
Time Being 
Westward Ha! 

High Plains Drifter 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,226
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 2, 2007
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Description 

High Plains Drifter is a great route, but like many climbs at the Bank, perhaps better suited to the seasoned Gunks climber or those that are just plain crazy. The pro is generally good, but it's never quite as bomber as you want it and never quite close enough to the hardest moves.

Begin well right of Westward Ha! at a stretch of wall that is bookended by two large corner systems -- the right corner forms the wall and arete of Nectar Vector.

P1: Ascend a weakness with good pro for about 30 feet before traversing up and right on good holds to the right end of a low roof. The climbing here has some fixed pro/tat but should be runnered well as this pitch wanders. Traverse back left underneath the low roof to a stance at the left end and load it up with well-runnered gear. The rock here is white and flakey and loose, but the gear is all you get until reaching the belay. Launch up over this roof onto the headwall above. The good holds are hard to leave behind, but some positive crimps on the headwall are just enough to make it passable. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay below the huge roof at the top of the wall. 5.10 R.

P2: Undercling out right around the big roof, then continue up to the top of the wall past its right end.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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