Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistfull of Poodles T 
Chuck Wagon Crack T 
City Slickers TR 
Corral Crack T 
Herd Instinct T 
High Plains Drifter T 
Honky Justice T 
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
Six-Gun by My Side T 
Way Out West TR 
Wild Wild West S 

High Plains Drifter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ripley Casdorph, Louie Anderson and Geoff Archer, 1990
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Dec 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Monkey o' Steel gettin' some High Plains Drifter o...

Description 

It's "ugly" as Bartlett states in his guide; and it certainly is. It's also awkward and quite strenuous. I put off climbing it for a number of years until I no longer had and excuse other than I'm not a masochist. Do it on an empty stomach.

Protection 

Gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of High Plains Drifter Slideshow Add Photo
Go up left crack until it ends, then move right.
BETA PHOTO: Go up left crack until it ends, then move right.
High Plains Drifter (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: High Plains Drifter (5.9), Joshua Tree NP

Comments on High Plains Drifter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Protects OK if you ignore the rack beta in Vogel's book. Take a few pieces bigger than 2" and place solid pro before the 'barf move.'
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 2, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward, but solid jamming skills take the bite out of it. Short and somewhat forgettable at half a star out five.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 18, 2009

The Bartlett guide clearly locates this route as right of the "ugly chimney." Thin hand jams through the crux bulge low on the route lead to easier climbing up the discontinuous crack above.
By Avi Katz
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

great fist jam at the bottom. easily protected crux with a 4 or 4.5