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Redgarden - S Buttress
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High Noon 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Montgomery, Hruby, Brooks
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,884
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is one of my favorite routes in this part of Eldo. I like the challenging climbing, the position, and the 'minimalist' use of bolts. Most people think it's hard for .11a and has a couple 'cruxes'. My main reason for posting is to report that one of the two belay bolts has broken off. This is a useful rappel anchor for the routes Pilgrim (10d) and Walk the Talk (9+) also. Both of those routes are good and well worth doing also. From this belay, a 40' 5.5 pitch up and right takes you to the anchors on Black Top from which you can rap to the ground via the anchors on Night if you have a 60 meter rope. A 50 meter rope may work, but you'll have to end further up on Pseudo-Sidetrack and descend from there.


    Protection 

    Supplement bolts with small gear & #2.5 Friend.



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    By David A. Turner
    Aug 20, 2002

    A route to do for those who have "done everything in Eldo", and are bored. You won't be bored on this route. Good nut craft a must.

    By Andy Donson
    Mar 5, 2003

    The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a.

    By Aaron Ramras
    Feb 1, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    This is a great pitch! I found that the bolts protect the crux moves well. Supplemental gear in combination with positive edges make the rest of it quite reasonable. I felt pretty comfortable with two #1 cams and a single set of TCUs. You can access the start of The Vaporizor by following the band up and left from the bolted anchor at the base of High Noon. Doing Pilgrim, High Noon, and the Vaporizor makes for a very nice outing.