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Tonsai Tower
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High Noon (Formerly Mr. Phi Phi) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Shamick, Suchard Sripoh
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shamick always told me that "Mr. Phi Phi isn't the name of that climb" and after three years he has remembered/decided that "High Noon" is the name of the climb.

Long and sustained, this one is a must do on the wall. It ascends a white arete of flowstone that steepens as you get higher. From the anchor, you could continue another 20 feet past 3 Titanium bolts for a 5.11 finish. See "Lois Lane" and "Going Dutch."


Location 

Left Sector. From the trail, walk left past the loose section of rock. You will see an obvious white arete of flowstone... This is "Mr. Phi Phi." From the loose rock to the patch of vegetation going up the wall (climbers right to left) the climbs are as follows:

- Seven Samurai
- Mr. Phi Phi
- Lois Lane
- Trong Pai
- Baron Von Tok
- Latitude Eight
- Brian Fagman


Protection 

Ti and SS glue in bolts, threads. 12 draws.



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 2, 2007

I'd call this the 3rd best route on Tonsai Tower we did, after #1 Rev de Phi Phi Don and Seven Samurai. Fun crux.