This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.
Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.
Cams to 4", doubles to 2", nuts.
jade littlewood cruising up the line
Last jug of an awesome climb. Great setting!
Sep 6, 2007
This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
|By Alpine Carl|
Mar 10, 2008
If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.
I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving.
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Mar 11, 2013
Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.