This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.
Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.
Cams to 4", doubles to 2", nuts.
jade littlewood cruising up the line
Sep 6, 2007
This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
|By Alpine Carl|
Mar 10, 2008
If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.
I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving.
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Mar 11, 2013
Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.