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High Meadow Wall

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High Meadow Wall  


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: steitz on Sep 23, 2011  with updates from John Ski
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Description 

The Main Wall is a steep to overhanging, high quality schist cliff with mostly sport routes 5.10-5.12. Most of the routes do not go to the top of the cliff so top-roping would be difficult. Routes have 2 bolt rap anchors. A 60 meter rope will work on most raps, a 70 meter on all. Some routes can be climbed on rainy days.

Getting There 

Deer Hill Rd approach to Main Cliff:
Drive 30 minutes north from N Conway/Fryeburg toward Evans Notch on Rt 113 to Deer Hill Rd on the right (Summit Achievement sign at road head). Drive 3.8 miles on Deer Hill Rd to a small pull off on the left. Walk 50 yds to start of Shell Pond Trail. Follow Shell Pond trail for 25 minutes and look for a faint climbers trail on your right. (If you come to an ATV bridge over a stream you've walked a little too far.) Hike 10 steep minutes uphill to upper tier of Main Cliff.

Stone House Rd approach to Main Cliff:
Continue north on Rt 113 1.1 miles past Bald Face parking lot to Stone House Rd on right (0.9 miles south of Basin Pond road on left). Follow Stone House Rd a short distance and take a right at T intersection. Continue on main road until you reach a gate closure at and parking lot at 1.1 miles. Walk past gate toward Stone House. Don't take first Shell Pond Trail on right but continue on road past White Cairn Trail and Stone House Trail on your left to a LARGE field/landing strip on the right side of road near the Stone House. Walk the road in the middle of the field (avoiding the Stone House and being low key) for another beautiful half mile (Main Wall will come into sight high on left ridge) until you cross an ATV bridge on Shell Pond Trail. Go right after crossing bridge another few minutes to the faint Main Wall climbers trail on you left. A steep 10 minutes uphill brings you to the upper tier.

The lower tier looks to have new route potential.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for High Meadow Wall:
Captain Dinghy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in High Meadow Wall

Featured Route For High Meadow Wall
Start on the top of a pointed block close the clean grey face and make an easy 1st clip. Straight up for a few bolts using flakes and jugs until you start trending right toward a foot wide left facing ramp/flake (with an excellent finger crack) protected by 2 bolts. Then straight up passing a few bulges, each having nice holds to  make your clips from. Bolts are placed well. Face is steeper than it looks in the picture.

Captain Dinghy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  ME : Shell Pond : High Meadow Wall
Wicked pissah route. Good steep rock with jugs right where you want them. The crux seems to be at at 3/4 height.Start on the top of a pointed block next to the clean grey face and make an easy first clip. Head straight up for a few bolts then trend right toward a foot wide ramp/flake with a beautiful finger crack protected by 2 bolts. At right end of ramp head straight up passing bulges on jugs to a 2 bolt anchor with chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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