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Make thoughtful moves up the fun slab on the left side of the little triangular buttress (crux). Exit at the weakness under the tree, traverse right on the ledge, and then lay-back up the the corner. Exit right at the top of the corner towards a small tree.
This may be the tallest climb on the cliff.
Start on the left of the little triangular buttress that forms the ramp at the start of Morning Glory, Steps, and Zits. It is almost directly beneath the large tree midway up.
TR bolts are left of the corner above the face. Setting up the TR anchor can be a bit a sketchy, so consider clipping in for safety.
I have not led this, but the initial slab is entirely unprotected. Also, the top of the corner widens to off-width, so one would need wide gear to protect it fully (but it is the easiest part of the climb).
It would also be possible to move up the easy ramp on the left to the tree.
Dec 10, 2011
A good alternative moderate when the routes on the main face are occupied. The corner crack at the top is pretty fun. When I led it, I climbed the ramp on the left of the slab which takes plenty of gear. Also, I found plenty of gear on the upper section as well, just look around. The only slightly spicy move is at the top if you are going for the anchor bolts off to the left. Instead, I used the tree and a stopper at the top of the corner. I would not give this climb an R rating, PG maybe.
|By Chris McNeil|
From: Essex, MA
Dec 13, 2011
I think it is the slab start (containing the crux) where the R rating comes from. Which indeed is unprotectable and has a pretty rough landing, about 15ft from the cruxs...yikes.
Jan 12, 2012
The slab start is about a 5.9 I believe, protected with a pad. The ramp keeps the grade solid and is definitely well protected. As for the top.... the anchors were added for TR but makes for a spicy "pg-13"/ "r" slab finish with out changing the grade (much). Does that top move want a bolt to protect from a rolled ankle? I didn't feel it to be a "must" but perhaps for the grade it should be considered. Talk amongst yourselves. The Bosch will stay dormant for now.