High Heeled Tittty Twister 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob and Carrie Robertson, Julian Smith, 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Julian Smith on Jan 2, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
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Description Located between Politically Incorrect and Shelf Pride, this route ascends a cool crack that splits a headwall above a roof. Start as for Politically Incorrect, but go straight up to the roof instead of traversing right. Pull the roof to the left side and continue straight up the finger crack. Either clip the anchors at the end of the crack or step left and continue up to the anchors on Shelf Pride.
Protection 7 bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Shannon moving past the roof.
| BETA PHOTO: Shannon above the roof.
| BETA PHOTO: Steve Davis under the roof.
| Oh no, not another roof shot! Matt on lead.
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| Comments on High Heeled Tittty Twister |
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn May 4, 2002
| Call it 10b. A fun route but look out for some loose rock down low. The bolt spacing is a little "sporty" on the easier sections so a leader pushing his/her limits might want to try a different route. |
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Nov 30, 2003
| I agree with Dave on the 10b rating. Although the bolts aren't as close as they can be on other Cactus routes, I felt the solid hand and finger jams resulted in confident climbing. Maybe my paws just fit the cracks well. A fun route. |
By Clint Ballard From: Greeley, CO Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| The guidebook calls this climb 10a. It is bolted fine and should not be avoided. |
By Ben Burnett Feb 24, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| Easier than some of the .9s on Cactus. I'd say: 10a. The bolts are well placed. I would not discourage a 10a leader from this one. |
By Travis Merrill Apr 28, 2009
| I really liked this route, it looked harder than it was. Also when i reached the anchors both the nuts on the bolts were so loose i could finger tighten them. The bolts seemed fine but the "hangers" are barely on there, i backed it up with the one cam i always have on me (yay green link) and tightened as much as I could with my fingers. Someone might want to take a wrench up there or something. |
By Gabe Anderson Apr 7, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| I thought this was a very fun climb. Bolts are well placed. The crux for me was after moving out on to the face and clipping the last bolt before the anchors. I'd say 10a is fair. |
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