Located between Politically Incorrect and Shelf Pride, this route ascends a cool crack that splits a headwall above a roof. Start as for Politically Incorrect, but go straight up to the roof instead of traversing right. Pull the roof to the left side and continue straight up the finger crack. Either clip the anchors at the end of the crack or step left and continue up to the anchors on Shelf Pride.
Call it 10b. A fun route but look out for some loose rock down low. The bolt spacing is a little "sporty" on the easier sections so a leader pushing his/her limits might want to try a different route.
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Nov 30, 2003
I agree with Dave on the 10b rating. Although the bolts aren't as close as they can be on other Cactus routes, I felt the solid hand and finger jams resulted in confident climbing. Maybe my paws just fit the cracks well. A fun route.
By Clint Ballard From: Greeley, CO Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
The guidebook calls this climb 10a. It is bolted fine and should not be avoided.
By Ben Burnett From: Colorado Feb 24, 2009 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Easier than some of the .9s on Cactus. I'd say: 10a. The bolts are well placed. I would not discourage a 10a leader from this one.
I really liked this route, it looked harder than it was. Also when i reached the anchors both the nuts on the bolts were so loose i could finger tighten them. The bolts seemed fine but the "hangers" are barely on there, i backed it up with the one cam i always have on me (yay green link) and tightened as much as I could with my fingers. Someone might want to take a wrench up there or something.