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High H20 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman, October 2004
Page Views: 2,049
Submitted By: Cory P on Sep 15, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: High H2O.

Description 

This has a very difficult start for this grade, and it continues with moderate climbing up to the anchor. It has good and enjoyable rock; however, some key holds have broken off, bringing the rating up from a 5.10a to the 5.10b/c range. Nonetheless, it is a good, albeit rather difficult for the grade, climb.


Location 

This is the last route on Ripple Wall before the wall "Bends;" three routes are past it. Look for chalk on what appears to be an interesting start.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Caution 

As of 10/09: per PRRose both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.



Photos of High H20 Slideshow Add Photo
The wicked crux start to High H20.
BETA PHOTO: The wicked crux start to High H20.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2013
By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Nov 7, 2006

The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.

By Nathan Hoobler
Mar 4, 2007

Agreed on the tough start. Like Jim, I was wondering if a hold or two had broken off. In a couple areas, the rock looked a different color as though a piece might be missing. It definitely feels harder than 5.10a up to the 2nd bolt. Fun after that. Took a pretty good lead fall about 1/2 way up. Also, it's mentioned elsewhere that the left anchor bolt is quite loose.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 31, 2007

I traversed in from an obvious rail about 6 feet left of the large block laying at the base of the route. Although easier than a direct start these moves were mid 5.10 IMO. A scary first clip and the second wasn't very secure either, much easier after that. The first bolt spins and both anchors are pretty loose also, be careful.

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jun 18, 2008

Pretty cool sequence of thin moves past the first couple bolts. It helps to be tall. After doing about a half dozen pitches at Red Rocks park last week, this felt far harder than the other 5.10s we did. Perhaps more like 5.11a.

By kevin fox
From: parker
Sep 13, 2008

I agree with Steve, this has an .11a start. I didn't stick clip the first bolt that spins and popped off the first moves numerous times. I think that Stewart's guidebook says, "must do" which really means "sandbagged".

By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 23, 2009

The start to this line is indeed tricky, definitely the crux of the entire route. The first two clips are very balancy, but after those the route mellows out. No comment on the grade, although I will say H20 is a fun route route that you'll be glad you did no matter how many times you slip off the start. Landing is flat, and there's nothing to worry about should you not have a stick clip. Quick update, on the hardware side...almost every bolt is loose, including both anchors. Definitely needs a wrench soon so toss one in your bag if you're heading out and be sure to use a sling/draws if you're setting up a TR.

By Curt True
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b X

The anchor bolts are very shady. Be careful

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 29, 2009

I'm embarrassed to say I've tried this a few times and cannot do the start clean. The start is very difficult.

By Stewart M. Green
Oct 24, 2009

I'll try to get out in the next week or two and pull those bolts and replace them with big glue-in bolts. Eventually all the anchors on the east side of the canyon will have to be replaced with glue-ins. Part of the problem is that there are some folks that insist on top-roping the routes with their rope through the anchors rather than through quickdraws. The action of the rope and the weight load weakens the placement over time, loosening the bolts.

By Ryan Sanders
From: C Springs
May 9, 2011

Both anchor bolts are scary loose in their holes, and the start has gotten even harder from a year ago.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 11, 2011

The starting holds have changed with time. It is significantly harder than it used to be a few years ago, likely to holds getting more rounded, that undercling chipping. It felt harder than 5.11 yesterday.

By karl Maes
Jul 6, 2012

11a or b not toooo hard but fun for sure, also it is well bolted.

By Patrick Manitou
From: Manitou Springs, Co
Aug 12, 2012

Nailed the start today after a few tries. That felt great, because that start is ridiculous! I'd call it V4/V5 without hesitation, which would put this thing in the 5.12 range. Significantly eases up after bolt two.

By Blaze Bowen
Jul 9, 2013

As of 7/9/13, both anchors are still suspect. The left you can almost pull out, the right wiggles in its hole just not as much. Be careful, folks!