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High Falls 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Hugh Dougher
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Larry S on Jun 23, 2012

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High Falls-Drifting Arrow Linkup from the optional...

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Description 

P1 - Move easily up the bottom of the practice wall, thru a short hand crack an past a single pointless bolt to the ledge. Optional belay from here, but it's a straight shot to the next belay.

P2 - Follow the path of least resistance up the face above to gain the large left facing corner. Either go left of the rotting tree up a small right facing corner then traverse right into the bigger corner further up, or go right of the tree and up some lichen covered rock directly to the bottom of the big corner. Stem up clean rock in the corner to a small belay ledge atop the corner below a long roof.

P3 - Traverse 15 feet right till the roof overhead ends, then move up the face and right facing corner (crux, well protected) to the next roof. Traverse right under this roof with great gear until you can pull up a weakness at it's right end. An optional semi hanging belay here (V1) with your feet in a wide horizontal crack lets you see the second thru the crux and keeps rope drag manageable, otherwise continue up 20 feet to and pull a notch onto a ledge on the right w/ an old tree anchor and belay there. Rope drag will be bad if you opt for the ledge.

P4 - From this final ledge, move up the corner or face to the left of the corner to the top and belay off some trees

V1 - Drifting Arrow Link-Up - from the semi hanging belay, diagonal right up the face to a small ledge and pull the thought provoking crux moves on Drifting Arrow . Makes the route really worthwhile, protects well throughout.

Location 

The climb begins about 30 feet left of the top of the trail from the cold air cave, below an obvious hand-crack.

To descend, traverse carefully to the left corner of the buttress to a smallish tree with two rap-bolts by it's base. There is a tree with slings and rings about 20 feet above this rap station if you need to protect this approach. Rappel on a single 60m rope to a second set of rap-bolts hidden next to the second large tree below.

Protection 

Standard rack up to BD #3, some doubles in the .5-#1 sizes usefull. Tricams handy too.


Photos of High Falls Slideshow Add Photo
The hand traverse of High Falls.  There are some d...
The hand traverse of High Falls. There are some d...
Ryan on the crux traverse pitch of High Falls.
BETA PHOTO: Ryan on the crux traverse pitch of High Falls.
The nice direct line of the High Falls-Drifting Ar...
The nice direct line of the High Falls-Drifting Ar...
View of the traverse pitch from the belay.
View of the traverse pitch from the belay.

Comments on High Falls Add Comment
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By Larry S
Jun 25, 2012

The bottom between the ledge and the corner, and the top above the last ledge could use a little cleaning, but the middle bit is very high quality for a route at the gap. There is (currently) a shoebox size flake/block on the face at the start of the crux that you can really wrap your hand around, but be carefull, it's a bit loose. The traverse after the crux is not to be missed.
By Larry S
Nov 2, 2014

The loose flake previously mentioned is now very loose. It is possible to do the move without it. Might need to get up there with a crowbar.