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A one-star climb just to the right of Shockley's Ceiling, this route is a hidden gem. An extremely run-out and spicy 5.3 first pitch (definitely not for a 5.3 or even 5.4 leader), leading to an odd, crescent-shaped second pitch with really nice moves (5.2-5.3 G/PG), eventually leads to a beautiful offwidth/dihedral (5.5 PG) that just keeps coming at you. Make certain to check the guidebook topo; there's a 5.8 PG route that overlaps this one, and it's easy to get off-route.
P1: Climb up alcove to right-facing dihedral; follow the dihedral to a pine tree or continue slightly up and right to the base of some overhead right-facing corners. 5.3, 75'.
P2: Follow the right-facing corner system up and right in a "C" shape to the GT ledge; walk right along GT ledge to a large arete, walk around corner to grassy area underneath imposing dihedral. 5.2, 100'.
P3: Climb the dihedral to the top. Due to rope drag, you can build an intermediate anchor on the GT ledge almost directly above the rappel tree from P1 belay and bring up the second, then do a short (20 foot) traverse to get around the corner. 5.5, 80'.
Descent: Rappel off the Shockley's Ceiling rappel, or walk about 50 yards to climber's left to the bolted Ribs rappel. There is a rappel station just to climber's right of the P2 belay, but it's two rappels to the ground -- and the intermediate rappel station is nothing to write home about.
Approximately 60 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling, in a right-facing dihedral with a short "chimney" or alcove.
P1: nearly nonexistent, although the crux moves have protection. I put in 3 pieces in 75 feet. With larger cams (3.5, 4) there might be more protection.
P2: adequate, but fiddly.
P3: looks adequate, maybe PG; we had to bail off due to the last pitch being dripping wet.
Looking down P2, to the belay station.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3
|By Michael G|
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13
Gear at crux on pitch three is fine. You can sling the chockstone at the crux, and get a cam in on the left face of the corner a little higher up. It is a little run out in other places on the climb, though.
Also, I was told that someone died on this climb a few years ago. Does anyone have information on that?
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
Just stay out of the thin chimney on the right of the corner if you want to keep it at the grade. Gulp!
|By Mark Roth|
May 18, 2009
I think this was the scene of the first fatality in the Gunks in 1959. The old red Dick Williams guide mentioned it, and caused me to avoid this route for about 20 years. Bummer, cause the corner is super fun.
Jul 14, 2010
I have a question about the second pitch, if you start up from the tree with the slings on it (presumably that's the belay station for the first pitch), and climb up, there's, at least now, a cam stuck up there, where a right-facing corner turns into a small roof. I climbed up to the cam, but the move higher than that did not feel like a 5.3 (which one book said) nor a 5.5. I assumed that the direct way up is the 'Hi Coroner!'. So I traversed to the right a little, and hanging on to a few crimper holds and a few somewhat persistent ledges I moved up over a small overhang after about 7-10 feet of this. This was easier than straight up, but still did not feel like a 5.5. My question is: Is the route sandbagged, just right (and I'm just a wuss), or was I off-route (for High Corner, anyways)? Also, I wound up coming up directly below the third pitch beginning, but I did traverse right somewhat on a foot-wide ledge.
Aug 5, 2010
k321, that cam is on P2 of Grim-Ace Face (just before the hard moves). Your traverse rightwards put you on High Coroner, 5.5ish but rather airy bit of climbing. IMO this is a better way to get to the GTL and P3 of High Corner than the wandering/rope draggy usual P2.