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high altitude survey

Original Post
mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

I am writing a research paper for a creative writing class concerning medicine at high altitude, specifically mount Everest. So any high altitude climbers, please answer the following questions or any that apply to you.

1. do you wear a helmet while alpine climbing?
2. what if any medical equipment do you take?
3. do you have any formal medical training?
4. do you make it a point to have a plan in the case of a medical emergency (evac, treatment, distance from definitive care, etc?)
5. has anyone you know been injured while climbing in the alpine, if so how severely?
6. has anyone you know suffered from an altitude related illness (hape, hace, ams?)

Much Appreciated.

deathzonescience · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15

What's this medicine?

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
deathzonescience wrote:What's this medicine?
It's the dex, man

mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

shit.

I meant to say "medicine at high altitude" not "a medicine."

"cut the rope peter!"

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

What do helmets have to do with high altitude medicine?
Just honestly confused - I like to help with surveys for research projects as I was there once myself but not sure where you're going with this one.

mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

what i need is numerical data with which to reference. So i can say "oh 90% of alpine climbers wear helmets, maybe that is why concussions only contributed to 5.1 percent of all mountaineering accidents between 1951 and 2006", given that statistic, one would assume that an on-mountain medical provider would not need to be as practiced, or equipped to deal with head trauma from ice/rock fall, due (in part) to helmet use. Not to mention that treating a severe head wound could mean the difference between the doctor at base camp, or a helicopter ride to the nearest neurosurgeon, and a helmet could very well be that deciding factor.

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 535

I'll help you out dude

1. do you wear a helmet while alpine climbing? yes

2. what if any medical equipment do you take? depends on the route. Basic First Aid kit for single-day objectives (triangular bandages, benedryl, mylar blanket, tweezers, tape, assorted bandages) to bigger kits for larger objectives (combat gauze, dex)

3. do you have any formal medical training? EMT/WFA

4. do you make it a point to have a plan in the case of a medical emergency (evac, treatment, distance from definitive care, etc?) Yes - AAC insured too. Or bring an ER doc on your expedition.

5. has anyone you know been injured while climbing in the alpine, if so how severely? I'm guessing you are going with high altitude. Yes - someone who was trekking in Nepal with us was progressing towards HAPE and had to be heli'd back to Kathmandu.

6. has anyone you know suffered from an altitude related illness (hape, hace, ams?) AMS - suffered personally (SP02 54% at 19k, ataxia, tachycardia resting pulse of 110+, and severe headaches/insomnia. HAPE aforementioned, pretty much all of us suffered AMS to some degree, mitigated by acetezolimade, rest, time. Had a buddy who did a quick ascent of Kili who ended up pretty altered/hallucinating towards the top.

Good times.

deathzonescience · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15
mr. mango wrote:I am writing a research paper for a creative writing class concerning medicine at high altitude, specifically mount Everest. So any high altitude climbers, please answer the following questions or any that apply to you. 1. do you wear a helmet while alpine climbing? 2. what if any medical equipment do you take? 3. do you have any formal medical training? 4. do you make it a point to have a plan in the case of a medical emergency (evac, treatment, distance from definitive care, etc?) 5. has anyone you know been injured while climbing in the alpine, if so how severely? 6. has anyone you know suffered from an altitude related illness (hape, hace, ams?) Much Appreciated.
planning a 6000 meter peak in July. I will be wearing a helmet. As far a prescription drugs, I'm bringing dex, acetazolamide, cipro, Zithromax, Zofran and Ambien as well as basic first aid kit. I have 8 years of formal medical training. There is no heli evac service available there. Will rely on self rescue, but will have a sat phone. I don't have any 'close' friends who have been severely injured in an alpine environment. I know people who have suffered from AMS.
mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

chris, thanks so much for the input,
deathzonescience, thank you also. are you under a physician advisory, or are you able to legally purchase drugs.

deathzonescience · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15
mr. mango wrote:chris, thanks so much for the input, deathzonescience, thank you also. are you under a physician advisory, or are you able to legally purchase drugs.
I can prescribe those meds to myself (except the ambien).
chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 535

I had convinced a travel doctor at sea level to prescribe the meds. Being a certified EMT helped secure the scripts, including one for opoid painkillers in case we needed to evac someone.

mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

thanks for all the input

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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