High & Dry
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 700 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11- [details]|
|FA: ||P-1 & 2 Nathan Brown Tony Spainhour (2008) The remainder - Nathan Brown ~ rope solo (2012)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Apr 25, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: High & Dry is in red with adjacent lines in blue.
This is another high quality slab/face route that stays dry when most all of the grooves are wet. It is a step up in difficulty from say "Central Pillar", so for those looking for something a bit harder, this would be a good one to do. It climbs through 2 steeper sections of wall on amazingly high friction rock!
P-1 Climb the right facing corner just left of the start to "Stemming Laurel" to a small stance and a gear belay at the top. While the corner is vegetated, it actually climbs much better than it appears. 5.9
P-2 Climb the face up and slightly left past 3 bolts to gear (#2 camelot in hole) and then 3 more bolts to the (shared) 2 bolt anchor of "Dolphin Graveyard". 5.9+
P-3 Move right along dike and climb through the steep rock following a few bolts to easier terrain and eventually "Lyles Ledge" for a gear belay (.4-.75 camelots) 5.11-
P-4 Move up and right past a couple of gear options then up a long moderate slab to the headwall (level with crux pitch of "Stemming Laurel"). Climb the headwall on bolts past a semi-hollow flake to a stance up and right. Make thin moves up and right, then back left past one more bolt and a 2 bolt belay. 5.10c
P-5 Climb up the moderate groove past 1 bolt to the "Lost World Ledge" and the belay bolts in the steep wall (the ones for Stemming Laurel). 5.8
Between dolphin graveyard and stemming laurel. Start in the vegetated right facing corner.
Light rack up to # 3 camelot
crappy photo of nathan on the skyline on the FA of...
The second pitch roughly follows this dike feature...