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GPS: 38.44809, -79.12193
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,149 total · 46/month
Shared By: Mike Farnsworth on Feb 25, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

West facing; often quite windy for the area. 

Hidden Roofs is home to the tallest routes in Rockingham County.  (There are some taller cliffs on private land which are not open to climbing. Ugh.)   

Between the early 1980s and 2014 only three routes had been established at this crag.  In 2015 Mike Farnsworth freed the big roof which Mike Artz had aided back in 1983.  The aid line was named Frontal Lobotomy and Mike Farnsworth re-named the route Flower Sermon when he succeeded in freeing it at 5.13d!.  Hats off to both Mike and Mike for their visionary efforts on the seriously huge roof!!  BUT, the area still only boasted 3 lines which had been climbed.

A new era of development started in late 2020 and continues to the present.  While the routes are as good as anything in Rockingham County, the proximity to the New River Gorge, Reeds Creek/Smoke Hole, Seneca, and Old Rag will keep this crag from attracting much attention.  I would guess that the volume of work needed to clean and establish lines was the primary reason that the area received little attention for so many decades.  A helmet isn't a bad idea at this crag as literally tons of rock have been cleaned over the past couple years.  Multiple crowbars, a car jack, hammers...you get the idea.  I want all my fellow climbers to have fun and not get hurt, so I have tried very hard to be thorough in the cleaning efforts.  As with all climbing, be thoughtful and use caution.   

Hidden Roofs is home to the only sport climbs in Rockingham Country.  They were established by an old fart trad climber, so don't freak out if you have to trust a piton or fixed nuts in leu of a bolt.  They are good, so whip away!  The primary motivation for developing this crag was proximity to Harrisonburg.  Many bike trips (with drill in tow) were made back and forth from the 'Burg to establish the area.  Can't so easily ride to NRG, Old Rag or Seneca for a day of climbing!!  Sometimes local is good.

Also, given that some routes have seen very few ascents you should be cautious about grades.  I suck at giving routes grades.          

Getting There Suggest change

Hike to Lower Hidden and then continue to Hidden Cracks.  As you approach the end of Hidden Cracks, stay right next to the crag to avoid some thick brambles and downed trees.  An obvious trail departs from the end of Hidden Cracks.  The impressive and dramatic Flower Sermon roof is about 5-7 minutes past the end of Hidden Cracks.  You'll pass a scrappy little outcrop called "Stay Hidden" on your way to Hidden Roofs.  Multiple lines have been climbed at "Stay Hidden" but take a clue from the name and keep on walking.  This is the preferred approach during times of high water as you only have 4 stream crossings.  

Alternatively after the 4th stream crossing you can stay in the creek bed, following and obvious trail.  You'll hop scotch back and forth across the steam many more times until you see a couple big cairns and a trail up the hill to your right, marked with pink tape.  When the trees are bare, it is easy to see the crag from the creek bed as the rocks are very close.  If there are climbers at the crag you are close enough to hear them talking.  This trail brings you up to the crag at the base of Missouri and Gone to Texas.  During prime weather you can hike out this way and take a dip in one of the swimming holes.

There is a trail up to the top from either end of the crag.           

The hike is beautiful. Appx. 35-40 min. total approach time regardless of which option you use to access the crag.  

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hidden Roofs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Roach Motel
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Moonwalk
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Jungle Gym
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Wild Turkey
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
The Grinch
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Coyote
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Ring-necked Snake
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Jigsaw Puzzle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Risky Business
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Cracked
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 13
Loch Ness Monster
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Risky Business Direct Finish
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Gone to Texas
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Solitude
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Dirty Hooker
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roach Motel
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Moonwalk
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Jungle Gym
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Wild Turkey
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Grinch
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Coyote
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Ring-necked Snake
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Jigsaw Puzzle
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Risky Business
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cracked
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Loch Ness Monster
 13
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Risky Business Direct Finish
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gone to Texas
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Solitude
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dirty Hooker
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Hidden Roofs »

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