|Smugglers Notch Ice climbing
The route can be done in 2-3 pitches, but you could do as many as 5 I would think.
There are 2 definite pitches of easy ice/snow that lead to the upper snow field. From here there are 3 distinct separate variations that could be taken. I suppose you could do each one and rap back to the snowfield and then do the next. The left is the hardest, right is the easiest.
When approaching from the North, you cannot see Hidden Gully until you have passed the top of the Notch and are heading down the South side. Look up across from Elephants Head and you will see the second snow field and two of the three finishing pitch options off of it.
Approach is up a slide path about 500 vert. feet to the beginning of the gully. The approach starts in a roadside pullout just a few hundred yards south of the stone hut.
At second snow field (end of second pitch, on left) there are two, two bolt anchors. One is set up with rap rings. At the first snow field (end of first pitch) there are a number of trees on right some with rappel slings on them.
Top of Hidden Gully, below the amphitheater BETA PHOTO: Third Pitch + Three Variations
From: Campton NH
Mar 7, 2013
The middle and right variations can both be taken up to 5/6 pitches but at that point your getting into some tight alpine climbing.
|By Ben Townsend|
Mar 8, 2014
This is a good climb to solo if you're comfortable on easy to moderate ice, though you want to watch for ice dams and unstable snow. I took the right flow at the top and continued up a narrowing gully until I hit the ridge line, then traversed down and right through the woods until I hit a (pretty inobvious) trail. The trail seemed to dead-end at the north end of a long narrow cave, but walking south through the cave brought me to the top of Easy Gully, which made for a straightforward descent.