Hidden Gem 5.12d
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a/b [details] |
| FA: | Marcus Garcia, ground up |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Marcus garcia on Jul 4, 2011 |
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The climb.
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Description This was bolted on lead, so it is a little sporty. It has a little run out at the top, you have to climb through the crux to get to the next to and last bolt. This has good crimps with powerful lockoffs and big moves over a small roof. It shares the anchors with Doctor Doolittle and Push-Me-Pull-You. Climb up and left after the last bolt around the flake. Please use good sandstone climbing skills.
I gave it 12+ to 13- rating with the suggestion of others. I would be interested in hearing others' suggestions.
Location The route starts to the left of "Push-Me-Pull-You" just below the first bolt. Follow the finger crack to the first bolt. Rap from the anchor.
Protection Bring finger-sized cams and one #0.75 Camalot or similar protect you until you get to the first bolt. It is runout from the last bolt.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 28, 2012
| This route is piss hard. If your tendons are made out of steel cables like Marcus' fingers, then go crazy go nuts. If your fingers are soft like boiled potatoes, then Yellow Pages to the right should treat you just right. |
By Christopher Barlow
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.13
| Having only tried it once, I would estimate the grade to be a bit more than the 12+/13- given by Marcus. The crux has pretty small holds. |
By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
May 20, 2012
| I guess it is a little harder than I thought. I still like it. |
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