Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | John Kelbel 2006 |
Page Views: | 2,939 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009 |
Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Access Issue: Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property)
Details
While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!
Description
This route and Yoda's Vision both start off the same ledge, which is most easily reached from rappelling in from the top. Find the furthest most point of land at the top and use a high sling on the small tree as a directional.
Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.
A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.
Staying tied in while belaying from the ledge is highly recommended.
Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.
A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.
Staying tied in while belaying from the ledge is highly recommended.
Location
Looking up from the base of the Sport Wall, there is a ledge 20 feet off the ground on the right side of the wall. While munge surrounds the lower wall and everything up and right, there are two clean lines leaving from the left side of the ledge. Hidden Art is the crack the goes straight up from the left edge.
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