|The Millenium Boulder
Start on the prow to the left of "Purity Control". Sitdown (stand?) start, lefthand on an edge and righthand on a sidepull. Do the first move of the prow problem then traverse right along the seam. Grab a bad pocket with your lefthand and dyno for the lip. This is not the full beta.
One pad will do but two is better!
BETA PHOTO: Hickey's (stand) uses the red holds.
Jason baker showing the love for "Hickey's, V7." ...
From: North Bend, OR
Jul 27, 2008
Yes it is, can anyone give some more info on this one, everytime I'm there I can't seem to pick out the moves.
Feb 27, 2009
It's been a long while, but Hickey's V7 + Cannibal Dance: start standing w/ left-facing sidepull, power out to crimpy gaston? w/ RH, highstep left, LH to poor pocket, then again to lip.
Sit start on oppositional holds using a wild perched right foot adds a V grade or so.
Also, do the sit or stand start and climb the wall diagonally join and exit as for Purity Control /aka/ pocket problem. If I remember, I called this "Thunderhead"... a contrivance to be sure, but it gives you a really cool sequence getting the left most pocket of purity control and moving through it.
Apr 21, 2009
So to be clear, is the submitter describing what j.jaeger called Thunderhead? And is Hickey's and Cannibal Dance the same thing, both going straight up and not meeting Purity Control/Pocket Problem.
So this entry should be changed to Thunderhead and new entry should be created for Hickey's/Cannibal Dance.
|By doug rouse|
From: Denver, CO.
Dec 30, 2009
I was out working this in November, and was unable to send from the bottom. I was heading out the ramp, then using a pocket for the right hand at the end of the ramp, and trying to reach another pocket which appears to facilitate a reach through to the ledge.... Is this the correct beta, or is the pocket out right off? Not like it matters a whole lot..If someone who knows would comment, it would be appreciated. Peace
Jan 5, 2010
For Cannibal Dance, you gain a right hand pocket, highstep left foot, left hand to a horrid pocket, then stab again to the ledge above. To be clear: Cannibal Dance aka Hickey's V7 climbs straight up. Thunderhead climbs that downhill face from low left to high right (ending at the top out as for Purity Control).
For what it's worth, my first trip to the Millennium Boulder, Hickey and Jade were there and pointed out "Cannibal Dance" as a stand start, which most believe is stiff for 7 as it is. The sit adds a bit of difficulty.
Jan 27, 2011
rating: V7 7A+
Justin, Thunderhead is sick and a much better problem than Cannibal Dance, imo.... Any speculation on the grade of Thunderhead?