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Hey Ranger! 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Mike Morin, Ward Mitchell
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Ralph Kolva on Jun 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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We climbed the rib/blunt arete to just left of the...

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Description 

Pitch 1. Climb a prominent rib with good protection to a series of vertical cracks to a small ledge and set pro for anchor, approximately 130 - 160 feet.

Pitch 2. Head left from the belay going up a ramp to the base of a steep headwall with a finger crack and good chickenheads. Continue up the headwall to a very comfortable ledge and belay, approximately 130 feet.

Pitch 3. Climb a final headwall to the summit, approximately 60 feet.

Location 

Per Rick Blair: this ascends the "prominent rib", the right of the 2 prominent ribs with aspens browning in between. If you look up, you will see the 2nd pitch headwall with the finger crack. The start is not at the base of the formation but uphill toward the start of the gully between Parkview and the Ranch Hand.

Protection 

A rack to a #3 Camalot. There were no anchors, and we never found the slings for the rap into the gully between Meadowview Dome and the Ranch Hand. The gully is a bushwhack.


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By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 8, 2013

I took the description from the Fixed Pin guide. As for the route, we have no idea if we were actually on it. There was another party to the left of us, and none of us were certain of where the actual route was. The entire face is roughly the same grade anywhere you climb, and the pro is decent with maybe 30' runouts. Think Third Flatiron with no eye-bolts. The beginning 5.5 climber may want to use caution.
By ErikaNW
Jul 10, 2013

We found slings on a tree to rap from when we did this route end of May/early June (per the Fixed Pin description). Major bushwhack down the steep gully from there with a lot of loose rock. From a glance at the mapsh it looks like it might be possible to walk off the back side of the next formation over (Ranch Hand)?
By Kirk
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 30, 2013

Pretty sure I was on the rib but didn't come across good protection. 30-40' runouts.
By Brian Bourquin
From: Denver, CO
May 18, 2014

It is much better to walk off around the Ranch Hand formation. I did it both ways. It is time consuming to rap into then bushwhack out of the gully.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 19, 2014

Instead of bushwhacking through the descent gully, you can easily 5th class traverse just above the gully. Probably not any faster, but waaaaay more fun.
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Jul 27, 2014

To avoid confusion, the correct route is the "prominent rib", the right of the 2 prominent ribs with aspens browning in between. If you look up, you will see the 2nd pitch headwall with the finger crack. The start is not at the base of the formation but uphill toward the start of the gully between Parkview and the Ranch Hand.