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Hot Tamale Wall
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Hey Mr. Vacquero S 
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Hey Mr. Vacquero 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Next route to the right of Hot Tamale and just right of a dihedral that splits the wall. HMV starts on an undercut belly of good stone. The opening is a pretty stout boulder problem. Start with the first stick clipped. Go from a right hand undercling to an inobvious left hand mono. Next up to a right hand 2 finger, then to a pretty good hold left and below the second draw. Clip here, then go right to a crappy hold right of the draw, then right again to a great hold. Get high feet and reach to good but far away pockets, passing the 3rd bolt on the way.

You get to a no hands rest at a ledge here and then launch into the second crux after clipping the next bolt. A good right hand and a questionable left foot on a detached flake get you to a dynamic move to a large finger bucket. You have to get your feet into this hold to clip the next bolt, so it feels a bit run out. The end is a delicate vertical dance past the last bolt. Super good route.

Location 

Middle of the Tamale Wall

Protection 

bolts


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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

"b/c" You gotta be kidding me, right Tom? Is it getting to crowded up there or something (gotta keep those Greenies away). If this is b/c now, it's time to call Bobcat 12a...you know it's just a matter of time anyway.

Time to go train some more so I'll be able to RP the warmups....See you next week, hopefully!
By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Jul 5, 2011

Just trying to do my part in battling grade creep. Don't want the Iris to become another Tensleep.