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While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.
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Featured Route For Hexenküche
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
Climb up the overhanging rock to the first clip, then navigate through small holds, hard-to-see feet, and difficult, sequency moves to get to the sling (crux). Climb up through one more bolt to the anchor.The name of the climb translates to Gabriel's Big Move Gift....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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