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While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.
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Featured Route For Hexenküche
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
This route requires a lot of lock-off strength. Climb the start up to the perfectly placed first bolt. Make a few big reaches in the overhang and pull up into the eye sockets and one more move to clip the 2nd bolt. Get out of the overhang and into much easier, pleasant climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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