BETA PHOTO: The trail I prefer to get to the Kleine Hexen müss...
While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
The name means "Witches Kitchen".
From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.
Weather station 18.8 miles from here
46 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Hexenküche
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Europe
: ... : Hexenküche
The bolts on this thing are pretty crazy. I would recommend top-roping it before attempting it if 5.11s are challenging for you. If you're tall, you can clip the first bolt without having to start climbing, or if you're small like me, climb up some good holds and don't fall before clipping the first bolt because the landing is a bit nasty. Boulder through the lower section, using the good though somewhat small pockets, then make a big and somewhat blind move to the hold right of and a little bel...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Here are the paths which will take you to the two ...
BETA PHOTO: A VERY rough sketch of how the Hexenküche is laid ...
A view of the Water House from the trail to Kleine...
Here's the little section of concentrated boulder ...