Login with Facebook

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allgäuer Traum S 
Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 
Athos S 
Baba Jaga S 
Belohnung S 
Devil Wall S 
Devils's Dance 
Diagonalweg S 
Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 
Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 
Feenwald S 
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 
Geölter Blitz S 
Hexensex S 
Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 
Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 
Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 
Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 
Kurzer Zauber S 
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 
Master of Stone 
Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 
mihi Malte S 
Nordkante (North Arete) S 
Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 
Nordwestkante S 
Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 
Ostschlucht S 
Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 
Ostwand (East wall) S 
Phantom Lord 
Pipifax (Codswallop) S 
Rattenschwanz S 
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 
Sad Lisa 
Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 
Solohex S 
Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 
Ulrikenpfeiler S 
Völlig Schwerlos S 
Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 
Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.6639, 11.3328 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 957
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 5, 2011
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The trail I prefer to get to the Kleine Hexen müss...


While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
The name means "Witches Kitchen".

Getting There 

From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.

Climbing Season

Weather station 18.8 miles from here

46 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Hexenküche
Liesel Maurer follows the yellow line back and forth on the good holds, clipping 2 bolts along the way.

Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
The bolts on this thing are pretty crazy. I would recommend top-roping it before attempting it if 5.11s are challenging for you. If you're tall, you can clip the first bolt without having to start climbing, or if you're small like me, climb up some good holds and don't fall before clipping the first bolt because the landing is a bit nasty. Boulder through the lower section, using the good though somewhat small pockets, then make a big and somewhat blind move to the hold right of and a little bel...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Hexenküche Slideshow Add Photo
Here are the paths which will take you to the two sections of the Hexenküche.
BETA PHOTO: Here are the paths which will take you to the two ...
A VERY rough sketch of how the Hexenküche is laid out from above, along with some of the routes for reference. I drew this from memory, so don't expect every nook and cranny to be in the right place. As you can see, there are some boulders here. The fat line is the path and the thin line is the rock. For the most part, the rock faces downward, and North is down.
BETA PHOTO: A VERY rough sketch of how the Hexenküche is laid ...
A view of the Water House from the trail to Kleine Hexen müssen hexen.
A view of the Water House from the trail to Kleine...
Here's the little section of concentrated boulder problems. Phantom Lord is in the middle.
Here's the little section of concentrated boulder ...

Comments on Hexenküche Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -