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While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.
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Featured Route For Hexenküche
Athos 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
An overhanging arete with big moves on good holds. The first bolt is pretty high considering the landing is a bit scary, but the climbing up to that point isn't very difficult (maybe 5.8). Getting up to clipping the second bolt is the crux, and if you're attempting an onsite, I'd suggest you don't chicken clip the 2nd bolt, but go past it so you get a better stance. The climb up to the anchor isn't very difficult - just trust yourself and your belayer....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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