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While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.
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Featured Route For Hexenküche
Rattenschwanz 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
Cool, tricky, and hidden holds lead up this somewhat scary, somewhat tenuous route. Begin between Hiltpoltsteiner Weg and G.G.G. and head up to the first bolt, then head diagonal up and left through small holds and balancy moves to the second bolt (first crux). From here, head straight up to the third bolt and have a rest if you need it. Then head up the flake and keep your eyes open for potential in and around the crack above on your way to the 4th bolt (second crux). Head straight up to the an...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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