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Hexenküche

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allgäuer Traum S 
Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 
Athos S 
Baba Jaga S 
Belohnung S 
Crash 
Devil Wall S 
Devils's Dance 
Diagonalweg S 
Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 
Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 
Feenwald S 
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 
Geölter Blitz S 
Hexensex S 
Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 
Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 
Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 
Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 
Kurzer Zauber S 
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 
Master of Stone 
Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 
mihi Malte S 
Nordkante (North Arete) S 
Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 
Nordwestkante S 
Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 
Ostschlucht S 
Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 
Ostwand (East wall) S 
Phantom Lord 
Pipifax (Codswallop) S 
Rattenschwanz S 
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 
Sad Lisa 
Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 
Solohex S 
Teufelspakt 
Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 
Ulrikenpfeiler S 
Völlig Schwerlos S 
Waldenser 
Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 
Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 

Hexenküche  


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Location: 49.6639, 11.3328 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 995
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 5, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The trail I prefer to get to the Kleine Hexen müss...

Description 

While this area can get very crowded on weekends, it's still a very cool place to climb. It's in the forest and is cool in the summer, and has climbs ranging from UIAA 4 to 9-. The rock is pocketed like most other places in the Frankenjura, but it's got a little different feel to it. There are also a few routes which follow cracks, including an overhanging 8. This is a worthwhile place to visit.
The name means "Witches Kitchen".

Getting There 

From Nürnberg, drive down the B2 toward Gräfenberg, and keep driving until you get to Hiltpoltstein. Drive outside of town and watch for a parking lot on the left. There are a lot of trees around it, and it's right on the edge of town. Once you've parked, take the trail in the middle of the parking area (to the left of the signs) through the woods and keep following it to a clearing with a little building on a hill (it's a little water house). Go to the right around this little building and around the corner of the rocks. The first route you'll come to is Kurzer Zauber on the left, and you should see the crazy overhanging Kleine Hexen müssen hexen (8) in front of you a ways.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.8 miles from here

46 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',7],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Hexenküche
Steph at the top, having crushed the route after t...

Rattenschwanz 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  Europe : Germany : ... : Hexenküche
Cool, tricky, and hidden holds lead up this somewhat scary, somewhat tenuous route. Begin between Hiltpoltsteiner Weg and G.G.G. and head up to the first bolt, then head diagonal up and left through small holds and balancy moves to the second bolt (first crux). From here, head straight up to the third bolt and have a rest if you need it. Then head up the flake and keep your eyes open for potential in and around the crack above on your way to the 4th bolt (second crux). Head straight up to the an...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Hexenküche Slideshow Add Photo
Here are the paths which will take you to the two ...
BETA PHOTO: Here are the paths which will take you to the two ...
A VERY rough sketch of how the Hexenküche is laid ...
BETA PHOTO: A VERY rough sketch of how the Hexenküche is laid ...
A view of the Water House from the trail to Kleine...
A view of the Water House from the trail to Kleine...
Here's the little section of concentrated boulder ...
Here's the little section of concentrated boulder ...

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