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This is a moderately interesting alternative to the Bihedral.
Scramble up to the same ledge where Bihedral starts.
Find a right-facing dihedral system about 100 feet left of the obvious, left-facing dihedral of Bihedral and just right of Edge of Reality.
P1. Angle up & right along this dihedral system. It can be moist with recent rains. Pass a small roof on its right and find a ledge. Belay.
P2. Angle up and right along a small, right-facing dihedral to face climbing to below a crack. Fire up a crack in black-lichen covered rock with slightly tricky jams and top out just left of the finish of Bihedral.
Standard rack to a #4 Friend.
Near the bottom of the climb.
On the upper crack.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Not a bad route, but a little lichen at the botton and a little choss at the top. As well, it stays wet after a rain for quite some time, as the crack/overlap leaks water.
Can be done in 1 long pitch with a 70m and probably with a 60m at well. I'd take an extra #3 Camalot (3.5" piece) to avoid much swing potential or walking gear too much, and a lot of longer slings and do it in just 1 pitch.
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13
The first pitch is really fun but not very challenging. The second pitch had a bunch of lichen on it, was a bit more difficult, but was half the fun.