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This route gives an introduction to the steep, exposed climbing of the Sunshine Face, at an easier grade than the routes to its left. Climb the initial section of Buttress Chimney, then move up and left along a 5.7 ramp (often covered with pine needles) to belay bolts. The crux pitch follows thin face climbing on great rock, up and left, then back right, finishing at Paisano Ledge.
Bolts plus a light rack (include a few pieces to 3 inches for the belay at the top)
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 2, 2008
CLASSIC, repeated mannnny times for fun...
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The opening moves of pitch one are the hardest moves on the climb!
|By Todd Cook|
From: Hawthorne, CA
Sep 8, 2012
There are several bolts on this climb, some you'll want short quickdraws, others, alpine draws with the sling extended to reduce rope drag via the zig zag line. There's also at least two chicken heads that can be slung. Note: you can't drop down the original route line even with a 70; 3 rappels to the left of the climb take you down to the base, southwest of where you started.