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 ADVANCED
Rabbit Rock - Northeast
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
City Fathers S 
Dupree's Diamond Blues T 
Hesitation Blues T 
Roadkill T,S 

Hesitation Blues 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Johnson, Olin, 1980's
Season: East Facing Route
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: sqwirll on May 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Hesitation Blues from the start.

Description 

Go to the east side of Rabbit Rock and hike down to the large boulder at the base of the wall. There is a significant drop off at the end of the boulder. This is where Hesitation Blues begins. Climb the crack with large face holds to the top of the formation.

Protection 

This route eats cams, especially in the fingers to hands sizes. A great lead for a beginning climber. Gear to 3".

Descent 

Bolted anchors sit 20 feet to the right of the route to rappel off. A double rope rappel or 70M rope will get you off the top.


Photos of Hesitation Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down on the cool belay stance in the boulder corridor
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the cool belay stance in the bould...

Comments on Hesitation Blues Add Comment
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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Large cams are nice for the anchor. #3 and #3.5 Camalots.
By zoso
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Perfect beginner lead as stated. Easier and more straight forward than Norma's Book imo. Plus, all trad leaders should be building anchors. Much more fun than clipping chains. rant rant
By steve lindsay
Mar 25, 2012

Definetly approach North not South around the Rabbit Tail. Fun easy lead. Scary exposed walk off, use the chains 25 feet right of the top.
By Chris and Freda
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route! As a beginning climber/trad leader, I think the near-vertical first half is not the best place to learn how to trad lead - routes such as Good Times and Pure Pleasure are a better introduction. As noted, come in from the north, and it is easiest along the base of Buzzard Perch (east side of the boulders between Buzzard Perch and Rabbit Rock).