Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park 
Battle of the Bulbus 
Deepwater Horizon 
Defective Agency 
Emilia's Corner 
Flying Fish 
Goonch, The 
Great Wide Shark 
Hairless Dog 
Herringbone Direct  
High Tide 
Holy Mackerel 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) 
Land Shark 
Natural Born Topropers 
Nurse Shark 
Old Man and the Sea 
Old Man And The Sea Direct 
Pigeon of the Sea 
Play With Your Balls 
Pretzel Logic 
S.S. Minnow 
Sand Shark 
Sea Robin 
Sea Urchin 
Slap Happy 
Tendonkey Punch 
Tiger Shark 
Tiger's Woody 
Viagra Crack 
Wooly Bully 

Herringbone Direct  

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cichon
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: mike c on Dec 19, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Getting rolling into the action.


This has tricky moves about a 3rd of the way up...it is short but really fierce and sort of bouldery (reachy)...the gear is poor and only body weight friendly, but the climbing is super fun. It was originally led ground up aid, mixed-free (5.10, A3+).


This is just right of Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) and left of Herringbone, just left of the Primary Chimney.


Marginal gear leads to a bolted anchor.

Comments on Herringbone Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By mike c
From: nederland
Feb 20, 2012

Placing gear and pulling these moves have been my most intense challenge at this little but stacked quarry. I've struggled through quite a few gripping attemps on this ultra short, thin seam. After maybe ten or so tries I finally led this route clean. Unfortunately, I only managed a pinkpoint of it. Fortunately, I love a good challenge and am looking forward to a traditional redpoint. Of course, I think it's a little harder placing the gear on lead, but I think I can do it one piece at a time....

By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b R

The crux is short and pretty powerful. Luckily it's low to the ground.... I think this route is a good option for the free solo. Just a thought. Fun route.

By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b R