This is a good route that has some interesting moves and some stances to place protection. The start can be a little sandy, but quickly improves. Ends at a bolted anchor at a ledge.
Eds. there is a very large, loose flake on this route. Beware!
The route starts around the corner a little left of Apple Cider.
Standard East A rack.
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Just want to reiterate that the crux block is SUPER LOOSE! I was able to significantly flex it with a cam or a hand. Seems like you could send the entire route with a prybar. PILE! AVOID!
|By Christopher Barlow|
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
The large flake at the top of the stemming section (about halfway up the route) has become very loose. It is visibly flexing and is large enough to do some serious damage if one were to pull it off (think: 1000+ lbs. of rock falling 30 feet). Marcus G. and I both thought it looked/felt way more hollow than it used to, and we both thought it was now in the "pretty scary" level of looseness. There isn't really a way to avoid climbing on it, although using good technique and select holds makes it reasonable. The thing definitely shouldn't have gear behind it.