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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Death Crack T 
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Footnote T 
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
West Country T 

Hermaphrodite Flake 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Tom Naylor, Mary Olsen and Earl Olsen, July 1965
Season: summer
Page Views: 3,925
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006

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Alanna laybacking up the Hermaphrodite Flake.

Description 

A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.

P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.

P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.

P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.

P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.


Protection 

Normal rack, lots of quickdraws.


Location 

See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome



Photos of Hermaphrodite Flake Slideshow Add Photo
View up into the flake
View up into the flake
Steeper than it looks!
Steeper than it looks!
View down from inside the flake.  Fun moves.
View down from inside the flake. Fun moves.
Routes facing the lake
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
Comments on Hermaphrodite Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

"Hermaphrodite Flake" actually ends on top of the flake. From there climb either "Eunuch" or the newer thing with all the bolts.

By Blitzo
Sep 27, 2006

The bolted thing is called "Boltway" 5.8 or 5.10a. For more information get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 27, 2007

P2: You can climb the left side, right side, or up through the flake. Called Hermaphrodite flake because it goes both ways.

The Boltway (5.8)
P3: (5.7) several bolts very shady, one is halfway out. The climbing is fairly secure and the bolts are pretty close by Tuolumne standards. Rap rings at the belay here.

P4: (5.8) The crux is the first two bolts from the three bolt belay, then an easy crack and several variations lead to the top.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 18, 2007

For some stellar, heady moves, definitely go right and lie it back all the way--you'll get 5.10 on exposure!

Also, The Boltway is an excellent way to finish up the climbing. Very safely bolted by Tuolumne standards.

By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Jun 10, 2010

so if you do just hermapadite flake as the two pitches . from the belay/ rappel station above the flake. two sixty meter ropes gets you straight down right to the terrace were you can walk down from

By David M.H.
From: los Angeles, ca
Jul 11, 2011

You can actually use one 60m to get down from the top of the flake. With a 70m you can skip that anchor midway and right of the flake and go straight down the flake to a slightly hidden set of chains about 20ft below the bottom of the flake. I think a 60m might make it if it stretches enough - but I can guarantee a 70m works. Then next rappel gets you to the ground.

By Josh Cameron
Aug 20, 2011

If you lead the Flake and the first pitch of the Boltway, you can rap off and avoid the walk-off.

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off.
Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt.
Fun slab climbing though.