|Trashcan Rock - East Face
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This crack, just to the left of Butterfly Crack (5.11c), begins with a bulge. Good stances above the bulge make gear placement relatively easy until the dihedral crux section. The crux is very difficult to protect because the crack becomes very shallow. However, the rock is solid and edges are numerous on both sides of the dihedral. Above the crux the crack widens to 2" and takes bomber cam placements. A serious lead on excellent rock (3 out of 5 stars).
Small to medium stoppers and small TCU's to 2" cams protect this crack of varying width and depth. Large cams make a solid anchor at the top. An easy walkoff can be found on the west face or north end of the rock.
Quinlan getting ready to arrest a fall.