Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof.
The obvious roof with fixed draws. 100ft or so past rocking chair.
9 bolts, Anchors.
In the jugs on Heresy
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012
Probably my favorite climb in two days at the Obed. The sloper crux down low is a fun little boulder problem and the jug fest roof is just good clean fun. Highly recommend this one.
|By Travis Griggs|
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This was the second .11 I ever redpointed, and it remains my favorite sport climb in the universe. The crux comes about half way up the vertical feace, with balancy crossover on funky feet. After that, it's easy climbing to the chimney for a long rest before launching out the roof. The first fixed draw in the roof can be clipped from the chimney, and the second and third clips straddle a mondo no-hands rest.
It's like climbing on a sandstone jungle gym. Highly recommended.