Hereiophobia  5.10+

499 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 45 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, D. Merin, G. Hundal, EFR New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  1Eric Rhicard on Aug 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

He saw it and said it had to be climbed. He showe...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>> This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The name means fear of deviation from the official doctrine. (sport being the doctrine at this wall) The first trad route at the Orifice Wall. Left leaning and overhanging chimney/offwidth to steep jug hauling. Looks like a nightmare but footholds on the face make it fun and worth doing if you like the wide stuff. It is a little runnout to the first cam but easy. At the top you move left and finish by clipping the last bolt of Flyer Starter.

Location 

Starts in the black stained chimney that is also the start of Eureka.

Protection 

Two bolts and Camalots 1-#3 2-#4s 2-#5s 1 or 2-#6s. We used one six above the first bolt to move higher and place a 4 and a 5 then pulled the 6 in order to use it higher thus avoiding carrying two #6s

Photos of Hereiophobia Slideshow

Add Photo

Catalonian Crusher reaching for the fat cam.

Climber working his way up the route