NOTE: This route has been closed by the U.S. Forest Service and is included here for informational purposes only.Climb the finger crack left of Sultans of Stem. The crack thins and becomes discontinuous about 2/3 of the way up. Commit to the well featured face. You can fiddle some more gear in but its difficult to place from good stances once you leave the crack.Beware, falling from the anchors with no gear past the end of the crack will result in a ground fall....[more]Browse More Classics in KY
You can also park on the opposite side of the bridge (south side). Park in the dirt pull off. Hike across the road and down to the river. The river should be on your right side and you should be heading downstream as you start the approach. The trail follows a very faint path where the vegetation has been beat down. There is a lot of dead fall to step over and try to pick up the trail again. Just stay close to the bank, occasionally moving up hill to avoid a steep embankment until you can see the orange wall. You should see this wall right before you pass over a small talus field near a large boulder. This probably takes about 30 minutes of a moderate speed hiking. Once you can see the wall continue for a few more minutes until you reach a pine tree/hemlock grove. Turn left and head up hill bushwacking the easiest path to the wall. If the river starts to bend 180 to the left, you have gone too far. A topographic map helps with the approach.