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Henry Spies the Line 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,253
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

Start on the left end of a face, just below a bulge. Clip the first bolt, move up the cracked face and then to the crack. From the ledge, make a committing move up to a nice hand hold before clipping the 5th bolt.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #1-1.5 Friend is useful for between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and a #2 Friend is good for protecting just below the 5th.



Photos of Henry Spies the Line Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the day.
Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the d...
Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry Spies the Line.
Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry...
Orange - Redrum. <br />Green - Sleeper. <br />Blue - Henry Spies the Line.
BETA PHOTO: Orange - Redrum.
Green - Sleeper.
Blue - Henry Spi...
Henry Spies the Line.  The pumpy crux is moving past the first bolt, and it's a long way to the second bolt.  Another hard move getting to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Henry Spies the Line. The pumpy crux is moving pa...
Sean goes for the finish.
Sean goes for the finish.
Comments on Henry Spies the Line Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 1, 2001

In all due respect to the founder of this web page, Myke K., I must raise objections and warnings about this route. While the climbing is okay, the anchor system and the bolting are not up to par. Bring a steady mind or some trad gear for the middle section of this route. This is fine and not harder than 5.6. However, the anchor was placed on a fully undercut and detached block; stable for now, but for how long? In addition, if you are under 5 ft 10 inches in height, you can add another number to the grade and a poorly protected move to the anchor. The simple solution is to drop the anchor for convenient clipping from the top of ledge that marks the end of any reasonable climbing, about four feet lower than it is. This project is on the docket, and I hope we get done this spring (2001). However, be forewarned before you run up this route.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

Richard - Agreed. The guy who led this climb, (currently working a 5.13 on redpoint so no slouch), is about 510" and stood on that ledge for a good while before we found someone that we could borrow a cam from and send it up. A fall there would be nasty.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 14, 2003

The observations about the gear are now obsolete. We just climbed it this weekend and were happy to find the top anchors lowered and the scary clip from the upper ledge now an easy reach. While my memory may be faulty, it seems like something was sorted out lower on the route as well. The route is much safer.

By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 17, 2003

Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors!

By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Dec 25, 2008

Fun at the start and at the top, but fairly easy climbing in between. We spent the whole morning on the wrong routes (no pictures) and guessed this was a 5.8+, but I think that is because we were on Mrs. Hen earlier, and thought it was a really sandbagged 10c, so I will forego grading this climb.

By Dave J
Dec 25, 2008

Colin, check out Haas' new color guidebook to Table, it has some great color photos of the area that makes it really easy to get around.

By ZackB
From: Littleton, CO
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. I thought there were two difficult spots, the first being getting a draw into the second bolt and then the thin moves off the ledge to the anchors. Another great option is to setup a top rope on this route and climb the bulge directly just to the left of the second bolt. Fun moves there, but you may not be able to reach the second bolt if doing this on lead.

By Tombo
From: Boulder
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Clipping the second bolt becomes part of the crux if you're short.