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Drinking Wine with the Chinese (aka The Jizzler) T,TR 
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Henry Spies the Line S,TR 
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Ian and Pat Spy Yet Another Easy Line T 
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Let's Wake up Ronnie and Barb T 
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Henry Spies the Line 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,134
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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Martha doing what she does best....

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


Start on the left end of a face, just below a bulge. Clip the first bolt, move up the cracked face and then to the crack. From the ledge, make a committing move up to a nice hand hold before clipping the 5th bolt.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #1-1.5 Friend is useful for between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and a #2 Friend is good for protecting just below the 5th.

Photos of Henry Spies the Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the d...
Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry...
Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry...
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange - Redrum. Green - Sleeper. Blue - Henry Spi...
BETA PHOTO: Orange - Redrum. Green - Sleeper. Blue - Henry Spi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Henry Spies the Line.  The pumpy crux is moving pa...
BETA PHOTO: Henry Spies the Line. The pumpy crux is moving pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean goes for the finish.
Sean goes for the finish.

Comments on Henry Spies the Line Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 13, 2015
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

Richard - agreed. The guy who led this climb, (currently working a 5.13 on redpoint so no slouch), is about 5'10" and stood on that ledge for a good while before we found someone that we could borrow a cam from and send it up. A fall there would be nasty.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 1, 2001

In all due respect to the founder of this web page, Myke K., I must raise objections and warnings about this route. While the climbing is okay, the anchor system and the bolting are not up to par. Bring a steady mind or some trad gear for the middle section of this route. This is fine and not harder than 5.6. However, the anchor was placed on a fully undercut and detached block; stable for now, but for how long? In addition, if you are under 5 ft 10 inches in height, you can add another number to the grade and a poorly protected move to the anchor. The simple solution is to drop the anchor for convenient clipping from the top of ledge that marks the end of any reasonable climbing, about four feet lower than it is. This project is on the docket, and I hope we get done this spring (2001). However, be forewarned before you run up this route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 14, 2003

The observations about the gear are now obsolete. We just climbed it this weekend and were happy to find the top anchors lowered and the scary clip from the upper ledge now an easy reach. While my memory may be faulty, it seems like something was sorted out lower on the route as well. The route is much safer.
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 17, 2003

Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors!
By colin tuck
From: Moab
Dec 25, 2008

Fun at the start and at the top, but fairly easy climbing in between. We spent the whole morning on the wrong routes (no pictures) and guessed this was a 5.8+, but I think that is because we were on Mrs. Hen earlier, and thought it was a really sandbagged 10c, so I will forego grading this climb.
By Dave J
Dec 25, 2008

Colin, check out Haas' new color guidebook to Table, it has some great color photos of the area that makes it really easy to get around.
By ZackB
From: Littleton, CO
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. I thought there were two difficult spots, the first being getting a draw into the second bolt and then the thin moves off the ledge to the anchors. Another great option is to setup a top rope on this route and climb the bulge directly just to the left of the second bolt. Fun moves there, but you may not be able to reach the second bolt if doing this on lead.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Clipping the second bolt becomes part of the crux if you're short.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 26, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It seems that some of the older route descriptions offered above are obsolete. The climb begins at the RIGHT side of the face closer to the arete, following the only bolted line on the face. It is certainly not 5.6, but 9+ or 10a. In fact, staying on the bulge just left of the 2nd bolt in more difficult. The 9/10a move is to slap at a jug out on the arete where you work your way up right of the second bolt to the 3rd bolt. From here it's realy nice 5.7/8 climbing until the very top, where the last few moves to the anchors are stout 5.9. Be ready to clip in and hang from the anchors when setting up and taking down as there are no ledges to stand on. This is a very good route.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 27, 2015

William, the 5.6 comment above by Richard is in reference to the middle section of the route. The description seems fine. Folks climb this and other routes in a multitude of ways. Also, the discussion above leaves an understanding of the history of the route.
By Ben Henson
From: Avon, CO
Sep 13, 2015

I stayed left starting at the ground and felt the first moves up to the second bolt were 5.10-, but if you stay right from the ground, then it makes it significantly easier to get to the first bolt. Between the top bolt and the anchor has a balancy move, but everything in the middle felt like a 5.7.

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