Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The Temple of Tao
|
Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Frog Prince, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Hobson’s Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Tao-yin S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | Rob DeZonia and Mike DeZonia |
| Page Views: | 1,280 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a long pitch that can eat a double rack. It's a great warm up for the other routes up here.
Climb up 25 feet of easy ledges and blocks (5.4) to where the super clean rock starts and pull the first crux past the clean, right-facing corner. You can crush the corner or dance up the slab, both are 5.9. Continue up and around a small tree to a steeper section with a splitter in the corner and a crack to the right, perfect for stemming (5.8). This takes you to a jug rail and a little tree on the left. Pull the small bulge into a tricky and technical right facing corner. Work your way up corner to a litte roof with a clean corner out its right side (5.9). You can get a nice yellow Alien in a small horizontal crack below the roof to the left. Reach out left to a good hold and do a move up to a thank god jug (5.9+). Hand traverse back right to above the roof (5.6) and back into the corner. Climb the corner till about 20 or so feet from its top. You can go out right to crack (5.7 top out) or out left via a nice horizontal crack (5.8) and up a crack system to a tree belay (5.8). I like going out left.
When I first climbed this with my father, I was expecting a 5.6 or something. This has a lot of climbing on it and is an excellent 5.9 even with some dirt filled cracks.
Heng Chuan is the earth element in Hsingi Chuan, a Taoist martial art.
Climb up 25 feet of easy ledges and blocks (5.4) to where the super clean rock starts and pull the first crux past the clean, right-facing corner. You can crush the corner or dance up the slab, both are 5.9. Continue up and around a small tree to a steeper section with a splitter in the corner and a crack to the right, perfect for stemming (5.8). This takes you to a jug rail and a little tree on the left. Pull the small bulge into a tricky and technical right facing corner. Work your way up corner to a litte roof with a clean corner out its right side (5.9). You can get a nice yellow Alien in a small horizontal crack below the roof to the left. Reach out left to a good hold and do a move up to a thank god jug (5.9+). Hand traverse back right to above the roof (5.6) and back into the corner. Climb the corner till about 20 or so feet from its top. You can go out right to crack (5.7 top out) or out left via a nice horizontal crack (5.8) and up a crack system to a tree belay (5.8). I like going out left.
When I first climbed this with my father, I was expecting a 5.6 or something. This has a lot of climbing on it and is an excellent 5.9 even with some dirt filled cracks.
Heng Chuan is the earth element in Hsingi Chuan, a Taoist martial art.
0 Comments