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Hen and Chickens

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Cackle Crack 
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Yosemite Crack 

Hen and Chickens 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jun 5, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: View from Gollum's Arch.
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This crag sits below and just right of the Twin Owls. It is visible from the center of Estes Park, as a small spiky looking cliff. Up close, it's characterised by an arcing Y-shaped crack and a dihedral on the right side (the dihedral is Cackle Crack).

Approach as for the Twin Owls, and hike a short way past, then follow a climbers trail straight up to the base. The obvious, beautiful face with the Y-shaped crack (5.9/9+) will be right above you.


Getting There 

Approach as for the Twin Owls, and hike a short way past, then follow a climbers trail straight up to the base. The Twin Owls parking area at MacGregor Ranch no longer exists. Hike from the new parking lot towards the old parking lot, then go right/east to the 2nd branch trail towards the east side of Twin Owls. The obvious, beautiful orange face with the Y-shaped crack (5.9 or 9+) will be right above you.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hen and Chickens:
Cackle Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rooster Tail   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Yosemite Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rhode Island Red   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Hagakure   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Hen and Chickens

Featured Route For Hen and Chickens
Happy to be yarding on a jug after Red's thin start.  The piece in the photo is a totally bomber #1 (red) DMM Peenut.

Rhode Island Red 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  CO : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens
This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, a 100 foot high, satellite crag that rests at the SE corner of the East Owl.Take the appraoch trail that branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail; it leads directly to the buttress' base. Identify a large, clean left-facing corner (Cackle Crack). Rhode Island Red starts in a thin seam on the arete right of the corner (scary crux, RPs), then follows a good 5.9 hand crack across the wall to merge with ?Cackle Crack?...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Hen and Chickens Add Comment
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By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Apr 12, 2010
CONDITION REPORT 

Just an FYI - this area is open during seasonal raptor closures. We were up there Sunday and the info at the trailhead said that Hens and Chickens, Gollum's Arch will remain open.

By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Sep 2, 2007

On 31 August 2007, I set a rappel station with sling and rappel ring, between "Rooster Tail" and "Cackle Crack". The good aspects are that it avoids the downclimb and trail on the east side and it cannot be used for toproping. However, the setting is not optimal as there is a more secure-looking placement about 10 ft. higher. However, we were getting out as fast as we could because of lightning. Indeed a climber rappeling from above Thimbleberry Jam at that time was shocked by electric current (he's OK) as well as 2 climbers who had rappeled off Wolf's Tooth (they're OK). Sometime, I'll improve the rappel station, if you don't do it first.

RobDotCalm