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Hemorroids in Flight 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. Cashner, D. Hatten, R. Sumner, 1979.
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin at a tree where the Farce starts.
Climb past a bolt to a shallow jamcrack. follow this to an overhang with two bolts.
Climb over this overhang and up to a belay.
Scrambling leads to the top.

Protection 

to 2", draws.


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Did this 6/07. Very interesting route with a variety of moves on it. Starts same spot as the farce. you climb up to a leeper + buttonhead that actually protects a delicate move. Nothing else between you and the ground, so take care.

The roof crux is pretty physical, but takes awesome gear, so plug it quick and fire it.

Up above is easier climbing, but crack is wide/flarey and gear isn't great...

Also, I took a #3 camalot and placed it, and probably could have placed another. 4 bolts on the climb, 2 are good modern bolts, one is the leeper/buttonhead one, and there's one more old bolt.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jul 30, 2013

Despite its uninspiring appearance from the ground, this route was actually really fun. A few delicate moves protected by 2 bolts down low (on the slab) take you up a flared hand crack (can supplement second bolt with a high #2) to an interesting flared pod (and another bolt). Lieback the edge of the pod, clip another bolt, grab the mini-jug to the left, place a .4 or a .5 in the roof crack (or not), then throw for the perfect hand jams over the roof and cruise up the easy 5th class another 60ft to a natural belay (a few pieces of gear can be placed on your way up the crack). Top out and walk down (or keep going up).

All bolts are bomber.