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Elevation: 355 ft
GPS: 41.56924, -71.77669
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Jamie Re, Joe M

Description Suggest change

Hemlock Ledges is a ledge system about 1/4 mile wide, to the south of Beach Pond. The tallest portion, the right side, is about 45 feet tall and off vertical. Historically this has been a place for people to set up some easy top ropes, though  Brian Phillips'  old trad leads have recently  been retrobolted so there are a few rare for RI bolted lead climbs. Bolts, if they are OK there, should probably not proliferate too much and be well camouflaged as the area is very popular with other users, but the handful of moderate sport climbs on good quality rock are a welcome addition to RI climbing. For further info see http://www.climbri.org/beach.htm

Moving left there is a cave like formation that you see up the hill as you first approach the crag. It is named the Hand of Man Cave for the silhouetted hands painted on the wall. This general area and to the left has had some recent development by boulderers and as such is described in the Deadwood Area.

Continuing left, with occasional breaks are more walls, mostly about 25" tall. There are more good short TR/solo/highball possibilities. Most are pretty easy and could use some cleaning. The rock tends to be very featured with good juggy holds. It is a little steeper over here so, though shorter than the right side, the lines can be good. It is possible to do some trad leading here if you want to practice your placements and don't mind the shortness. There are lots of trees up top for anchors and a couple bolted ones with chain so you only need a couple lockers (take care getting to them to set up. If scrubbed up, there could be some really long bouldering traverses, especially towards the left side.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the yellow dot trail south from the smaller lot across from the beach parking area. It is up on the left, at the southern tip of Beach Pond, about 10 minutes in.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemlock Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
 8
Beach Blanket Bingo
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Sand Bag
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Smiley
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Muscle Beach
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Topless Beach
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Son of a Beach
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
One Holer
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Oh Mandy
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Shelby's Off Ramp
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Toe or Throw
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beach Blanket Bingo
 8
Sport, TR
Sand Bag
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Smiley
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Muscle Beach
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Topless Beach
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Son of a Beach
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
One Holer
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Oh Mandy
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Shelby's Off Ramp
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Toe or Throw
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Hemlock Ledges »

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