Hemlock Arete
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 30 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Zachary Lesch-Huie |
Page Views: | 2,890 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Sep 11, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
The crux is the pump. Get used to resting on your arms.
From the anchors of the Green Wall, step up to clip the first bolt on the slab apron. Step up and left onto the apron and follow large horizontals back and forth to reach the second bolt. A small hand sized piece can be placed before clipping the second bolt if the clip is too far. Make the bulge move to get to more of the same good holds and the third bolt just left of the arete. Pull around the arete to the left and catch a rest. Another small hand sized piece can be placed out left to protect the final hand traverse to the anchor. Step up from the rest and traverse right until you can gain the ledge with the bolts. For full value, do this in one pitch from the Green Wall and sling the anchors long.
Note: There is a semi-detached flake down and to the right of the third bolt. Some of the horizontals down low are really sharp and may pop.
From the anchors of the Green Wall, step up to clip the first bolt on the slab apron. Step up and left onto the apron and follow large horizontals back and forth to reach the second bolt. A small hand sized piece can be placed before clipping the second bolt if the clip is too far. Make the bulge move to get to more of the same good holds and the third bolt just left of the arete. Pull around the arete to the left and catch a rest. Another small hand sized piece can be placed out left to protect the final hand traverse to the anchor. Step up from the rest and traverse right until you can gain the ledge with the bolts. For full value, do this in one pitch from the Green Wall and sling the anchors long.
Note: There is a semi-detached flake down and to the right of the third bolt. Some of the horizontals down low are really sharp and may pop.
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