Starting at base of PCT Crack head up to ledge on right following jugs. Follow the obvious line up and over a mantle and through the roofs above. After some sequential climbing to get into the perfect but awkward hand crack at the apex of the roof, climb into a narrow chimney. After another awkward bulge climb a chimney and the crack / featured face to the left to chains. The crux begins when moving into and around the roofs and ends once around the bulge and into the wider of the two chimnies.
The entire route is overhanging
New bolts w/ chains get you down easily
Cams from .3' to 4". You could take a 6+" piece for the upper chimney, but smaller cams can be placed in a shallow crack on the left. Doubles or even triples of #2 and #3 camalots are helpful.
Jul 23, 2012
Great route! Needs more traffic to keep the lichen down. Great rests along the way keep this steep route 5.10.
|By Tahoe Matt|
Aug 23, 2013
Just climbed it, If PCT crack is 10d this is 11-. Still a great adventure for anyone who wants to get away from the crowds.
From: Reno, NV
Aug 29, 2013
Daniel - you sandbagger, you ;)
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Sep 3, 2013
Back in July this thing had grown some fuzz. It was obvious from yesterday with the heavy chalk we found that some folks have been on this thing. It still needs more traffic, but its in good shape right now.
Matt - if it was your chalk outside and to the left of the chimney I can understand how you would think that. There were three hard cruxes for me (from the first little ledge to the seat below the roof, around the roof and into the chimney, and around the bulge into the upper chimney). Each had a great rest afterward.
PCT crack was all about hanging on through the lichen/moss and wide to the chains (Enduro crux). This thing is about making hard pulls above gear to get into more secure climbing. In July I found that pushing a #6 deep in the chimney makes the upper chimney super safe and is easier/more secure than reaching out to place gear in the somewhat shallow cracks out left.