Good video covering the essentials. No disagreement here on the validity of any of the techniques used, just a few comments.
- making the tie in redundant by tying in a second time after the clove is not something I view as necessary. If anything I think it adds to the clutter at the anchor and increases the chances of tangles and/or confusion as things are swapped around. ymmv.
- looked like maybe 5mm cord for the cordolette. interesting choice given the other conservative techniques shown. maybe 5.5mm titan? nbd anyway...just interesting.
- they chose to not have the new leader clip a first piece at the anchor or some kind of directional prior to starting the new lead. again, nbd...but it seems like an interesting choice given the basic and conservative instruction intended.
Don't understand the lack of clipping the anchor as a first piece.
Clipping the first piece as part of the anchor isn't a given. If I've got a bomber belay and the leader might not get a solid piece right away, I'll clip them into the anchor. If they can get a nice cam in right off the belay then I wouldn't risk the extra load on the anchor.
I agree, I only clove hitch myself to the anchor, I've never felt the need to back that up.
I rarely clip a piece of the anchor though, the only time I do is when I think I might fall before I can get a piece in, but I'd say maybe 1 in a 100 pitches I clip a piece of the anchor and even then I usually have my partner unclip it once I get a piece in.
I thought the choice of a figure 8 on a bight to tie the second in was interesting. I usually use a clove for it's adjust-ability, but to each his own.
I sometimes back up my clove with a runner, but not to actually "back it up". When the leader has built the belay and is bringing up the rope, I'll take off the clove so when it comes tight it's on the harness. Then I'll throw it into overdrive to get ready to break up the belay as fast as possible.
Well, I gotta say that was awesome!! I'll leave the climbing nits to you all who are more experienced. I'm apparently a gumby in perpetuity.... What I can comment on is the videography. Here are the highlights as I observed them;
No freking wind in the background! No heavy breathing or beta spray or other distracting crap. No sophomoric shouting and no annoying (distracting) fades or subtitles. Sometimes that's part of the video, but in this case it worked way better without it.
Two climbers wearing different colors. Again, it takes one more potential question mark out of the mind of the observer. If it wasn't part of the original plan, it worked well as an accident.
The only sound was the narrator's voice. The guy has a great voice for it. Calm, very clear, and only speaking when it was necessary, and only saying what was necessary. Too many people try to fill silence with noise.
Great use of occasional "time lapse" when you really don't need to see the whole rope taken up.
The video title told you what it was going to cover, and it did. This was not a video that tried to include every notion ever made regarding climbing.
This was a huge leap forward in climbing videos. I have no idea who the Seattle Mountaineers are, but they really performed a service with this video. If they want to do another on anchor building to address all the notions brought up in previous posts, well, I'd watch it.
By Jake Jones From The Eastern Flatlands Nov 13, 2012
Mark V wrote:
When the first climber was bringing up the second climber, he had his belay device clipped through the shelf. I usually have it attached to the master point. Thoughts?
It does work either way. I usually anchor myself into the loops below the knot, and rig my belay device on the shelf. The reason for this is because I find the closer I can get my belay device to chest or head height, the more comfortable it is. Also, the closer your belay device is to you, the shorter your movements will be to take in slack as your second comes up. It becomes a matter of efficiency. If there's a little distance between you and your belay device- enough so that you can still reach it, but also far enough away that you can pull about three feet or so out at a time, the more efficient it will be.
This was a huge leap forward in climbing videos. I have no idea who the Seattle Mountaineers are, but they really performed a service with this video.
Agreed. Take a look at this other Seattle Mountaineers video on crevasse rescue using a z-pulley. I've used it to help instruct others on this topic. Definitely the best instructional video on the topic that I've found.
One quick trick to save a bit of time is to not have the follower clip into the anchor. Just leave them on the belay they came up with, and take their belay device for setting up the next pitch. Then the last thing the new leader does as they are leaving is they remove the original belay and take that device up with them. It means that you are swapping belay devices every pitch, but that shouldn't matter. If you do it fast, the whole lead swap only takes about 20 seconds.
^^ Is the focus of the thread the video itself or the techniques outlined therein? Anyway......... Wow... Again these guys (and gals) are awesome!!
Side note: Is it still necessary to admit that women kick ass in most everything that guys do? The whole Men/women, guys/gals,typing thing really gets old. I'll keep it up if the ladies need it. Otherwise I'm going to just take it for granted that climbers/athletes/etc are all pretty bad-assed.
That evolution in the video is a cluster*&^% mess of a process (for the first 50 times you practice it) and these people did a great job lining it out.
Pluses: Again, fast forwarding when necessary, using colors (I can't stress how HUGE that is in an instructional video) and keeping the guy with the right voice doing the job. I actually enjoyed the old school Batman-esque frame tilt to make it look like he was walking, and crawling, vertical.
i usually forego the clove hitch and just do the figure eight even though that is not adjustable. i like the clove hitch backed up by the figure eight though because i do like a figure eight in my anchor, just my personal preference.