Help Mr. Wizard 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Lyle Dean, Kitty Calhoun FFA Jim Okel, Tom Howard, Thomas Kelly |
| Submitted By: | gneiss pirate on Mar 14, 2011 |
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A great climb.
photo courtesy of Bruce Burgess
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Description I almost had to ask Mr. Wizard for help......almost.
Another great Shortoff classic! Climb the juggy face up to the crack. Clip an old pin and crank the burly/bouldery moves to a great stance and better gear. Finish up a wonderfully sustained and steep 5.8+ crack to a comfy belay ledge. Belay on natural gear.
To get off, you can finish on Maginot Line or Big Arete.
Location Starts right of Maginot Line about 30 ft, beneath a steep face with a crack.
Protection small to medium hybid cams, small to medium nuts, camalots .4 to 3(double .5 to 1 helpful but not neccessary), black tricam for the starting move to the jug, belay takes small to medium tcus
| Comments on Help Mr. Wizard |
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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 5, 2012
| We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta? |
By Robert Hutchins
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.10d PG13
| It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though. |
By Neil Rankin
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11- PG13
| A really pretty line, but it's a fairly serious lead. Get pro where you can going to the pin. A yellow master cam / alien is useful. |
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