I almost had to ask Mr. Wizard for help......almost.
Another great Shortoff classic! Climb the juggy face up to the crack. Clip an old pin and crank the burly/bouldery moves to a great stance and better gear. Finish up a wonderfully sustained and steep 5.8+ crack to a comfy belay ledge. Belay on natural gear.
To get off, you can finish on Maginot Line or Big Arete.
Starts right of Maginot Line about 30 ft, beneath a steep face with a crack.
small to medium hybid cams, small to medium nuts, camalots .4 to 3(double .5 to 1 helpful but not neccessary), black tricam for the starting move to the jug, belay takes small to medium tcus
It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though.
By Neil Rankin From: Greensboro, NC Apr 22, 2013 rating: 5.11-6c22VIII+22E3 5c PG13
A really pretty line, but it's a fairly serious lead. Get pro where you can going to the pin. A yellow master cam / alien is useful.
I didn't have much trouble getting to the first pin, I had a #5 stopper in the small crack, but looking back one of my larger micro-nuts would have been more fall-worthy. In any case, that pin was so rusted that clipping it felt like a bad joke