By todd w
Mar 28, 2012
| I need your wisdom! I've got 10 days this July to go anywhere in the U.S. Where should I go? Help me find a destination!
Here's my scoop:
We're looking for easy multipitch; classic, exposed, tall stuff. We climb easily into the 5.11 range for sport climbs, but we are really looking for the more "adventurous" feel of some tall, easier trad stuff. Ideally, I'm imagining 8 or so pitches of 5.8 climbing above a mountain or something. Maybe we'd jump on some classic hard sport lines in the area, too.
The big feel and exposure is what we're looking for. Something that will make for a memorable 10 day trip. I live in Kentucky, so I'm thinking somewhere out west is where I want to go. Most of the areas in the East will be on the hot side by July, so maybe somewhere with some elevation? Also, we're not really interested in the single-pitch crowded crag experience, as we get plenty of that in Kentucky.
What do you guys think? We've got two ropes, decently sized rack, and moderately sized balls. | 
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Mar 28, 2012
| Tahquitz is nice that time of year, and the camping up there is pleasant. The town of Idyllwild isn't so bad either. |
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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Mar 28, 2012
| I'm going to the Sierra this summer looking for similar adventure. Looks awesome. |
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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Mar 28, 2012
| ummm, Yosemite? (or better, Tuolumne to escape the July heat depending) |
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By Josh Kornish
Mar 28, 2012
| Consider going up through Ten Sleep on your way to the Tetons. Ten Sleep is THE sport destination (well) and of course the Tetons speak for themselves. Have a nice trip! |
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By kennoyce
From Clearfield, UT
Mar 28, 2012
| todd w wrote: I need your wisdom! I've got 10 days this July to go anywhere in the U.S. Where should I go? Help me find a destination! Here's my scoop: We're looking for easy multipitch; classic, exposed, tall stuff. We climb easily into the 5.11 range for sport climbs, but we are really looking for the more "adventurous" feel of some tall, easier trad stuff. Ideally, I'm imagining 8 or so pitches of 5.8 climbing above a mountain or something. Maybe we'd jump on some classic hard sport lines in the area, too. The big feel and exposure is what we're looking for. Something that will make for a memorable 10 day trip. I live in Kentucky, so I'm thinking somewhere out west is where I want to go. Most of the areas in the East will be on the hot side by July, so maybe somewhere with some elevation? Also, we're not really interested in the single-pitch crowded crag experience, as we get plenty of that in Kentucky. What do you guys think? We've got two ropes, decently sized rack, and moderately sized balls.
Based on what you're looking for I would second the votes for Thaquitz, the High Sierra, and Tuolumne, Another place that comes to mind (if you're willing to climb 10's) would be The Needles. Good luck and have fun! |
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By Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Mar 28, 2012
| +1 for the Needles! If you want "adventure, big feel and exposure," as Brigham Young once said, this is the place!
www.mountainproject.com/v/the-needles/105851693
EDIT: My partner and I once spent a week at the Needles and the only other climbers there were Lynn Hill, Scott Franklin and Greg Epperson. |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 28, 2012
| The Needles is some of the best climbing you will ever do. Every pitch there is worth doing, and no crowds. |
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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Mar 28, 2012
| Zirkel wrote: +1 for the Needles! If you want "adventure, big feel and exposure," as Brigham Young once said, this is the place! www.mountainproject.com/v/the-needles/105851693 EDIT: My partner and I once spent a week at the Needles and the only other climbers there were Lynn Hill, Scott Franklin and Greg Epperson.
Needles are awesome, no doubt about it, but are a bit limited in the 5.8 range. If the OP was willing to bump the grade up to 5.10, then the Needles would be a good choice. For long 5.8, not so much.
One big factor is whether you are looking for roadside multi-pitch rock climbing or for alpine rock (that you'll have to hike for).
For a roadside experience, camping at the car and getting in routes, Tuolomne would be a great choice. Squamish is also great in July, but isn't quite a remote alpine experience.
For backcountry/alpine, the high Sierra, Tetons, Wind Rivers, and RMNP would all be great choices. The Winds would make for an awesome trip; hike into the Cirque of the Towers for a week and climb big granite routes. You could easily round out a trip to the Winds or Tetons with some time at Wild Iris or Tensleep.
I'd maybe throw in a -1 for Tahquitz. It is an awesome area, no doubt about it (I used to live in Idy), but it isn't that tall. It tops out at ~5 pitches. If you really want long routes, you'll find bigger climbs elsewhere. Plus, it does get kind of hot there in the summer.
Avoid Yosemite (Valley, that is) in July. Hot. Crazy hot. Plus tourist crowds. Ick. Tuolomne is great in summer, though.
Also, are you driving or flying? If driving, anywhere in California is probably too far (well, it is WAY to far, actually) to go for a 10 day trip. You just don't want to lose that amount to time to driving. California areas are a better option if you are flying. If driving, RMNP (plus Lumpy and other crags in that area) is probably the best choice. Big alpine routes, pretty mountains, and the shortest drive (by far) from KY. |
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By todd w
Mar 28, 2012
| Excellent. Thanks for the advice, everyone.
My balls may not be big enough for the super long alpine stuff (my experience in multipitch is limited--"long" to me is anything over 4 pitches). Tuolumne looks like the early winner, although I was hoping for something a bit more, uh, featured. Can probably deal with it, though.
I'll probably be flying, so I can really go just about anywhere.
Good stuff, thanks. |
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Mar 28, 2012
| +1 for Cirque Of The Towers- tall , alpine routes, in an amazingly majestic area, (but bring deet, and mosquito netting- them skeeters will eat you alive). The routes in the Winds will feel adventurous with route finding challenges, if your not accustomed to reading long routes.
+1 for Tuolomne- although most of the routes aren't too tall, but fun nonetheless. The camping is great!
Edit: great post/advice from Jon Moen. |
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By kennoyce
From Clearfield, UT
Mar 28, 2012
| Jon Moen wrote: I'd maybe throw in a -1 for Tahquitz. It is an awesome area, no doubt about it (I used to live in Idy), but it isn't that tall. It tops out at ~5 pitches. If you really want long routes, you'll find bigger climbs elsewhere. Plus, it does get kind of hot there in the summer.
I don't agree with that. The Northwest Recess has several routes in his range that are 6-8 pitches in length. I'd guess that the OP would be perfectly happy to get 6-800' of air under him on some of the longer Thaquitz climbs. |
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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Mar 28, 2012
| Another CA (Sierra Eastside or Tuolumne) vote! Fits the bill for everything you're looking for.
todd w wrote: Tuolumne looks like the early winner, although I was hoping for something a bit more, uh, featured. Can probably deal with it, though.
Head down to some of the Eastside cragging hits for more featured rock. Tioga Pass, Clark Canyon, Rock Creek, tons of Bishop area stuff (Cardinal Pinnacle, Little Egypt)... along with the alpine opportunities and other sweet aspects (free camping, hot springs, the Mobil!), the Eastside could easily be done as its own trip. The proximity to Yosemite/Tuolumne only enhance the sickness!
Also, re: the Winds, mosquitoes are gnarly in July (usually). Probably not the time to first sample them. August is my preferred time to hit them up, but the insects can still be bad if it's been a big winter (it hasn't) or nighttime temps stay warm. |
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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Mar 28, 2012
| City of Rocks sounds like it meets your requirements. |
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By kennoyce
From Clearfield, UT
Mar 28, 2012
| Taylor Ogden wrote: City of Rocks sounds like it meets your requirements.
Does City of Rocks have many routes over 2 or 3 pitches? This is a serious question as I've never been there, but I was under the impression that it was mostly single pitch stuff with a few 2 or 3 pitch routes. |
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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Mar 28, 2012
| original poster wrote: Ideally, I'm imagining 8 or so pitches of 5.8 climbing above a mountain or something.
Taylor Ogden wrote: City of Rocks sounds like it meets your requirements.
Funny stuff. What 8 pitch route above a mountain are you thinking of in the City Taylor? |
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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Mar 28, 2012
| Nick Stayner wrote: Funny stuff. What 8 pitch route above a mountain are you thinking of in the City Taylor?
Haha, okay... maybe not 8 pitches. |
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By bearbreeder
Mar 28, 2012
| squamish ... youll be able to do splitter cracks at ~ 5.9 all the way up the chief ... most people i see from out east are amazed at the splitters ...
if you can do moderate trad ... 12-21 pitches of splitters and slabs will take you to the top .. |
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By MaraC
Mar 28, 2012
| What about Tahoe/Lover's Leap? |
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By todd w
Mar 29, 2012
| Cool, thanks all.
Looks like either Thaquitz, Tuolumne, or maybe Eldorado canyon. Tuolumne looks like it won't be too hot. Can't really hack it over 100 degrees! |
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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Mar 29, 2012
| todd w wrote: Cool, thanks all. Looks like either Thaquitz, Tuolumne, or maybe Eldorado canyon. Tuolumne looks like it won't be too hot. Can't really hack it over 100 degrees!
Eldo is hot as balls in July. |
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By Cleveland Wilson
From Villa Hills, KY
Mar 29, 2012
| Marc H wrote: Eldo is hot as balls in July.
I would rather climb at Eldo in July than the Red in July for sure. |
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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Mar 29, 2012
| I second whoever mentioned RMNP. I've climbed at most of the other places mentioned and I think RMNP offers you the best option for a ten day trip. Lots of varied stuff to do there. Ten days are a bit much for some of the other places like Tahquitz (not Thaquitz)or Eldo. I would get bored in these places after a week due to lack of variety. |
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