Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Help Gumby w/ Rack
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Forrest L.
Dec 11, 2012

Help gumby not sound like dinner bell.

On new routes w/o good gear beta. I take:

single or double c4s depending on # pitches and rope length
3 c3s
3 offset cams
hb offset nuts
9 bd nuts
6 micronuts
ball nuts for seams
5 small tricams for pockets
11 trad draws

Sometimes sound like dinner bell. Your thoughts?


FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Dec 11, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I think you're a hardman for carrying 20 camalots for long pitches.


FLAG
By Uncle Ben
Dec 12, 2012

Keep track of what you use and don't use and rack less of the former. My guess is you could leave the ball nuts and tricams on the ground at least. I hope you're not taking a bd 4,5, and 6 up every route...


FLAG
By Stephan Doyle
Dec 12, 2012

Where are you climbing?

I skip offset nuts, micro nuts (won't take a fall anyway), and take 2 tricams - pink and red. The offset cams might be worth skipping, too, and just take singles of C4s up to 3 or 3.5 max.


FLAG
By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Dec 12, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Gah. Get 1 set of nuts. 1 set of cams .5 to 2 and see what happens and build from there. And learn how to place the nuts well. Find someone to help you, a lot of bomber looking placements to a gumby are actually no Bueno.

Started off leading trad with a set of nuts, a .5 .75 and 1. It was awesome and learned a lot about leading with passive pro. Also if you're using a 6 as a new climber on lea you will be scared out of your freaking mind. Highly highly highly recommend following ow first...

And that is a SHITLOAD of gear to buy off the start... Just sayin amigo.

Good luck and have fun though. This is an awesome are of climbing your about to get hooked on :)

Re your list
Micros are for aid
Offsets are not really necessary as initial purchases and take more skill to place
5 tricams are totally unnecessary... Even climbing in the gunks 3 is plenty
And you'll probably want more than 3 c3s as you progress or find you actually need them but nuts are usually way better in small placements.


FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2012
Day Lily.

Don't worry about sounding like a gumby. If you are one then you are one and if you're not well...does it matter then? Stating so much about gumbiness tells me you're not only (assuming) concentrating on climbing but also how you look and sound. Take away the worry of your look/reputation/status and you'll find yourself dissolved into your climbing. This will greatly allow you to grow as a climber (also through the grades!). Not clinging to your image (ego) IS nutrition for your growth.

Here is my all-around rack that I use on multi-pitch routes:
2 tricams - pink and red
1 set of nuts - smallest is 5kn
3 hexes - act as doubles for c4 #1, 2 and 3 (wid country)
Several c3s - sometimes 3, sometimes 4-5 depending on day
.3-#3 c4 - single set except .75, .5 and .4 (metolius as the doubles)

Experiment, experiment, experiment! Find your own even if it means adopting perfectly someone elses (make it yours).


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Dec 12, 2012

depends on what you know about the climb, the grade, the area, and how confident you feel ...

generally though id like to have enough for a good piece or two at any point at the climb if i need to bail

there is no good answer ... if its a total unknown then i generally take doubles (or singles and a set of tricams) and a full set of nuts ... remember youll still need enough to build a belay if you truly dont know anything ...


FLAG
By Rafael Rovirosa
From Las Cruces, NM
Dec 12, 2012

Doubles of aliens or metolius up to red alien or orange metolius and doubles from .75 C4 to 3 C4. Then 1.5 sets of nuts (DMM). The doubles are in the small sizes. No hexes, no tricams, no off-set cams or nuts, and no other wacky gear. Of course if there is weird gear necessary then I will take it but what I listed above is a pretty standard rack at most areas.


FLAG
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2012
Day Lily.

+1 what Bearbreeder says.


FLAG
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Dec 12, 2012
blah

Keep the offsets i dont even carry normal nuts anymore


FLAG
By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Dec 12, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

I should have clarified, offset cams. It can be funky to get a good placement if you're totally new. Offset nuts are fantastic.


FLAG
By david doucette
Dec 12, 2012
Top of Intersection Rock, Joshua Tree NP.

one thing i'd recommend that helped me is to rack on your harness (if you're not doing that already). once i made the switch from gear sling to harness, i took less gear and realized i paid attention more to the route before a climb.


FLAG
By RyanJames
Dec 12, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky

Bring a double rack from small to 3, maybe a number 4 or 5 if it looks wide, nuts, and trad draws, all hooked to harness, unless you're chimneying. SEND!!!


FLAG
By TWK
Dec 13, 2012

The Stoned Master wrote:
...does it matter then? Stating so much about gumbiness tells me you're not only (assuming) concentrating on climbing but also how you look and sound. Take away the worry of your look/reputation/status and you'll find yourself dissolved into your climbing. This will greatly allow you to grow as a climber (also through the grades!). Not clinging to your image (ego) IS nutrition for your growth.


To be Jedi is to face the truth, and choose. Give off light, or darkness, Padawan. Be a candle, or the night.

--YODA, Dark Rendezvous


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.