Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(2) Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Grab n' Go S 
Helm's Deep T,S 
House of Pain S 
Redhorn Gate T 
Why Must I Cry S 

Helm's Deep 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jon Stewart, Mark Deffenbaugh, Kevin Rauch
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Pretty sustained, somewhat pumpy and not terribly technical, this route is a good way to get the blood flowing and get warmed up for the rest of your day.

The classic way to start this route is to simply step out over the gap from the comfortable belay ledge to the wall and start climbing, but if you screw it up you'll fall on the horrible impaling tree stump six feet down. If that seems too sketchy you can always start to the left and traverse to the first bolt.

If I had to pick out a crux I'd say it's between the second and third bolts, but frankly it's all pretty similar. Good rail-pulls the whole way up and a very slight overhang make for a solid, sustained route.


Location 

Look for a line of bolts above a gap between the wall and the rock promontory--that's Helm's Deep.


Protection 

Every time I've led this I've done so on just the bolts, but apparently there is a gear placement near the top someplace. I've never felt like I was running it out or that gear was necessary though.

If anyone knows where/what type of gear to place I'll be happy to update this.



Comments on Helm's Deep Add Comment
Show which comments
By bryans
Oct 20, 2010

I bring .5 and 2 inch black diamond cams. I forget exactly what goes where, but they go in horizontals around 2/3 or 3/4 up the route. They are bomber placements, not near bolts, and helpful if you don't have this climb or this grade wired.

By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Feb 4, 2011

Solid warm-up. Purple and gold BDs fit perfectly in a couple horizontal slots between the 4th and 5th bolt. The gold is almost unnecessary however, as it is placed within 1 or 2 moves of a bolt. Wouldn't be terrible to lead this without gear if you are solid at the grade.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I felt this route goes comfortably with just the BD .5 in the obvious horizontal b/w bolts 4 and 5. In addition, you can start the route from the ground below the step across. There are a few sidepull flakes that help you get started and then you can traverse left to the first bolt. As for the crux, there's a bouldery move near the 2nd bolt that is the greatest challenge for most people, especially those with limited reach.

By another Chad
May 13, 2014

Great route description. Never have placed gear on it either but if the grade is near your limit then it might be worthwhile.


Chad

By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 28, 2014

FYI, the FA has added a bolt to the runout between bolts 4-5 where gear would have been placed. Again, this bolt was added by the FA.