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Helm's Deep 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Baker, Mike McEwen
Season: later summer, fall (spring seasonal closure)
Page Views: 2,104
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    nearer to the left side of wall is a roof system 20' off the base. The left facing corner is the route.
    pitch 1, great moves off the ground (10+) lead past a fixed pin into the corner and crack above. after a roof system, step left to two bolt belay. Climb straight up face OR, step back to finish the hanging corner (10+). Exiting the corner, climb up and past two bolts (5.10) and then trend straight up to sling belay at bolts (some 5.9). Continue up past another bolt to belay. Two 4th class pitches on chickenheads lead to the summit.


    Near the left (west) 1/3 of the base- although I prefer the right side gully descent and longer walk vs the slabby left side downclimb.


    small rack including stoppers and camming units to 3". Some bolts and chickenheads for pro and anchors.

    Comments on Helm's Deep Add Comment
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    By Andy Bennett
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 29, 2010

    Bring your brown pants for this one...
    By Paul Davidson
    Sep 30, 2010

    Someone should replace that bolt ASAP. As I recall, it was drilled by Mike and lets just say that Mike was never really into drilling bolts. Now a Baker bolt, that was bomber (but probably not almost 40 (HOLY SHIX) years later.

    This climb will give you a good idea of the abilities of the McEwen/Baker team. '71 was still Kronhoffers or Blue RRs or ??? Chouinard hexes were first out in '71 and stoppers in '72. Dave Baker may or may not have had them on his rack for the FA of this climb. He was after all, running the Summit Hut out of his bedroom at that time.

    One of you Tucson lads should go in and pick Dave's brain on this climb and the post the story of the FA here!
    By Andy Bennett
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Mar 13, 2011

    We're on those bolts soon as the heat sets in down in the valley, Paul. The bolts on the third pitch spun in their holes upon mild tweaking...

    I'd love to know more about this route and all the routes on this area of Rap Rock. There seems to be a rich history of "bringing it" around there. RR's blue suede shoes and hexes...?! I felt rather anxious with Stealth rubber, micro-cams and the better part of my kitchen sink.
    By Clay Mansfield
    Aug 2, 2011

    Hey Andy, if you head up there, I would love to help with the replacement.
    By Geir
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 16, 2011

    All of the bolts on this classic route have been replaced. Thanks to Andy Bennett for getting the ball rolling and doing the bulk of the work. Also thanks to EFR for helping us obtain ASCA bolts & hangers.
    By Geir
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 9, 2012

    This climb is fantastic, and certainly a classic test piece.

    Pitch 1 feels a little harder than 10+ to me at its crux. It's about 70 feet.

    Pitch 2 is excellent and very committing. We did the right hand variation (the hanging corner); plan on solid 10 well above your gear. Once at the top of the corner you must traverse left approx 20 feet left to rejoin the route at two bolts. From here the anchor is more or less 60 feet above you, but some movement to the right and left is needed to find an occasional slung chickenhead and the easiest path. There is plenty of 5.10 climbing and not much pro on this pitch.

    Pitch 3 has more committing climbing. Start by moving up and left about 20 feet to a brown, chossy-looking stance. Directly above this is a bolt that is difficult to see from the anchor. Clip it, continue up past a small tree, then angle left to a right leaning ramp.

    Pitch 4 follows the easy ramp up and right to the summit.
    By Clay Mansfield
    Sep 11, 2012

    Another one of those "they did this in '71?!?" routes
    By jbak
    Sep 18, 2012

    And......originally rated 5.9+ !
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