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Helmet Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard and partner
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Joseph Brown on Oct 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: Climb straight up the face to double anchors shared with "Slippin into Darkness". Plenty of side pulls and foot stances to make this a tame 5.8 climb.


Just left of "Slippin into Darkness" right below the shared belay ledge.


No bolts, but good small/med pro placements. Double rap anchors on ledge.

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By Joseph Brown
From: Greenville, SC
Oct 23, 2009

This route is shown in "Selected Climbs", but unfortunately it's only annotated on the topo map. If anyone knows the FA history, please comment so that I can properly document the route.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2009

The old Kelley Guide lists "Tom Howard et al" for the FA on this one.
By Joseph Brown
From: Greenville, SC
Oct 31, 2009

Thanks for the update!
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010

As I recall, this variation was FA'd solo by Tom Howard. I always found it slopey and awkward, and apparently so did Mr. Howard, who called it "KFN" for "Kinda F-ing (G)narly". Apparently, Mr. Howard climbed this in the days before spellcheck.

NOTE - this is the story I heard in the mid-2000s from old-school OB folks. Accuracy is, of course, questionable.
By Tom Gallo
Mar 6, 2011

Great 100 ft. top rope. I would rate it 5.8 X
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Really fun technical face climbing with interesting moves the entire way up. Set up a top rope by climbing Helmet Buttress or Slippin. I wouldn't suggest leading this one as the pro is very sparse until the last 20 feet of the climb I found a placement for a pretty solid c4. I did climb up the right side of the buttress so the pro may be better climbing up the left side.

  • Description notes that the route takes good small to medium cams. I would note that they are okay and very sparse at best. Wouldn't recommend onsighting this even if it's well below your usual grade. Thats just me however.

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