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Helmet Variation 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Tom Howard and partner
Submitted By: Joseph Brown on Oct 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    P1: Climb straight up the face to double anchors shared with "Slippin into Darkness". Plenty of side pulls and foot stances to make this a tame 5.8 climb.


    Location 

    Just left of "Slippin into Darkness" right below the shared belay ledge.


    Protection 

    No bolts, but good small/med pro placements. Double rap anchors on ledge.



    Comments on Helmet Variation Add Comment
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    By Joseph Brown
    From: Greenville, SC
    Oct 23, 2009

    This route is shown in "Selected Climbs", but unfortunately it's only annotated on the topo map. If anyone knows the FA history, please comment so that I can properly document the route.

    By saxfiend
    Administrator
    From: Decatur, GA
    Oct 27, 2009

    The old Kelley Guide lists "Tom Howard et al" for the FA on this one.

    By Joseph Brown
    From: Greenville, SC
    Oct 31, 2009

    Thanks for the update!

    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Nov 11, 2010

    As I recall, this variation was FA'd solo by Tom Howard. I always found it slopey and awkward, and apparently so did Mr. Howard, who called it "KFN" for "Kinda F-ing (G)narly". Apparently, Mr. Howard climbed this in the days before spellcheck.

    NOTE - this is the story I heard in the mid-2000s from old-school OB folks. Accuracy is, of course, questionable.

    By Tom Gallo
    Mar 6, 2011

    Great 100 ft. top rope. I would rate it 5.8 X