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2 Ways 2 Hell T 
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 
Beer Barrel Buttress S 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 
Beer Pong T 
Chicken Dance S 
Corniche T 
Crack to Chimney T,TR 
Crack/Bulge T 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 
Half and Half 2 T 
Handle This Hard On! S 
Hellbound II T 
Hellraiser T 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hippy School T,TR 
In Between the Lines S,TR 
Intuition S 
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 
Natural Fact T 
Off Line S,TR 
Pack 'o Bobs S 
Plumber's Crack, The T 
Routefinding 101 T 
Serious Play T,TR 
Sidelines S,TR 
Smear Me A Beer S 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 
Toast & Jam? T 
Top Rope Face TR 
Tora, Tora, Tora T 
Toura Handle T,TR 
Toura Obscura S 
War With A Rack T 
What Line? T,TR 
Wholly Holey S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Feb 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Crack hell.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide. The crux is the hand and fist crack. Some holds to the left on Chicken Dance help in the crux region. It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly. Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.


Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Double #3s for the squeamish. Use the Chicken Dance anchor to the left to get down.


This is the crack immediately to the right of Chicken Dance. The crack starts in a left-facing dihedral. The business starts from a nice ledge about 20' up. Here a hand and fist crack is set deep into the corner. It widens to a chimney above. Descend from the hooks on Chicken Dance.

Photos of Hellraiser Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the crux section.
Entering the crux section.

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