Hellraiser  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Jay Eggleston on Feb 1, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Crack hell.

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Description 

This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide. The crux is the hand and fist crack. Some holds to the left on Chicken Dance help in the crux region. It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly. Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Double #3s for the squeamish. Use the Chicken Dance anchor to the left to get down.

Location 

This is the crack immediately to the right of Chicken Dance. The crack starts in a left-facing dihedral. The business starts from a nice ledge about 20' up. Here a hand and fist crack is set deep into the corner. It widens to a chimney above. Descend from the hooks on Chicken Dance.

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Entering the crux section.