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Hello Marco 6a 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Oct 6, 2011

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Kat on P3

Description 

A recommended route that takes a mostly mellow path up to one of the taller peaks.

11 pitches, 6a

P1-3 5b, 5a, 5b. Route name marked at base. Possible to link 1-2 together with 60s by a bit of simulclimbing.

P4 6a One airy move up an overhang gives the grade, otherwise just fun climbing.

P5 5c+++ What the wha….? If you love slab climbing, you'll love this pitch. Otherwise… bombs away!

P6 5c Shortish nice pitch up to a topout with two anchors; next pitch starts across a gully to the right, so best to just keep going here and belay from the bottom of p7.

P7-9 More good fun on ridge-textured rock, also another place between p 8-9 where you have to walk over some grass to get to the next belay. Just follow the red arrows (nice touch).

P10 Bit of a kooky pitch, but fun! After going straight up a bit, walk again across some grass and punch through some fun moves on a mini-tower arete to the comfy belay ledge. Or like I did, belay at the base of the mini-tower on one old yellow bolt (plus some gear) to make two short pitches with better communication.

P11 To the top! Enjoy the view.

6 rappels on 60m ropes, again following the red arrows to some dedicated rap stations.

Location 

On the Pfadflue section, see Plaisir West or Gastlosen.ch for details. Best parking at Oberi Bire.

Protection 

At least 16 draws including some long slings. A light rack is not a bad idea, but no placements were essential as the route is nicely bolted.


Photos of Hello Marco 6a Slideshow Add Photo
Dani starting P5
Dani starting P5
Kat on summit pitch!
Kat on summit pitch!

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By buckets
Jun 24, 2014



Here is a quick route description. This route is fabulous and highly recommended!

moredaysoff.wordpress.com/2014...