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Hellgate Cliffs

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East Hellgate 
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Hellgate Cliffs  


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Location: 40.59025, -111.64679 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 144,001
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 23, 2005
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Goats at Hellgate WEAR Helmets

Park your car off of the main canyon road.

Description 

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There 

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

85 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',13],['5.10',37],['5.11',25],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hellgate Cliffs:
Los Crudos   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Little Hellion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Tower One
Minor Threat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Rat Bastards   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Wisky Bench   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90110'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Pocket City   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   East Hellgate : Goat Gully Wall
Devil's Advocate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'   East Hellgate : Melting Mud West
Social Realism   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Tower Two
Antidote   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Alcohol Rub Out   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'   East Hellgate : Melting Mud West
Hell Raiser   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Main Hellgate
Hot Pockets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   East Hellgate : Goatland Wall
Martinez Mind Melter   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Melting Into Madness   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Deja Vu   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tower Two
Brain Doner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Till Hell Freezes Over   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Main Hellgate
Turbo Sphincter   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   East Hellgate : Goatland Wall
Medussa   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tower One
Public Nuisance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
Browse More Classics in Hellgate Cliffs

Featured Route For Hellgate Cliffs
Fett sending Turbo Sphincter.

Turbo Sphincter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Goatland Wall

Photos of Hellgate Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
I'm not sure, but it seemed like she was enjoying my company :) <br />nice day up at Far East Hellgate
I'm not sure, but it seemed like she was enjoying ...
Hellgate Cliffs
BETA PHOTO: Hellgate Cliffs
still posing, but did send! <br />I gave 'em the bad beta that this was a long 5.8... <br />turns out Greg says it's 5.11a
still posing, but did send! I gave 'em the bad bet...
I kinda like this one, it shows the climbing progression of a) TR on easy warm-up, b) TR on harder intermediate, c) lead on 5.11
I kinda like this one, it shows the climbing progr...
Hell Gate as seen from the South East Ridge of Mount Superior
Hell Gate as seen from the South East Ridge of Mou...

Comments on Hellgate Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2011
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Aug 20, 2007
Where has everyone been this summer? Hellgate has been my favorite hot weather crag this season, and I hardly ever see another party up there, even on weekends. Really good, steep limestone sport climbing in LCC and the place is deserted...
By James Garrett
Sep 11, 2007
I vote for better organisation and separating the routes on Main Hellgate and the three Hellgate towers from East Hellgate (formerly known as the Clamshell). East Hellgate has been grid bolted to the point that using this site with all the routes in all the various Hellgate areas in ONE area is extremely confusing. By making a separate area for East Hellgate which would include the Melting Mud Wall and everything East of and including A CLOUD IN THE SKY will be alot more helpful for people trying to navigate themselves around the place or hoping to glean beta from this web site.

It would be as if all the routes between Green A Gully and Beckey's Wall was just under Gate Buttress with no distinction between the 6 or so separate areas that actually exist.

Mountain Project, I believe, is first and foremost an online guidebook. One line route descriptions without topos thrown into the mix where they subsequently are listed alphabetically for a single area with 50-60 1/2 pitch routes.... well, it makes it nearly useless or practically impossible for getting the climber to the route. If beta is so brief as to be vague at best, what is the point of reporting it at all? On the other hand, if the reporter really would rather not have other climbers find the route or the area, again, why report it at all? (please refrain from just taking up space!)

In conclusion, I vote for Main Hellgate, Tower One, Tower Two, Tower Three, East Hellgate (may be further subdivided to include the individual named walls at East Hellgate such as Melting Mud Wall, Goat Gully Wall, etc
Does anyone agree? Will someone organise it better? How about using spell check, at least on the route names?....nobody is more dyslexic than me, so it's not a bad tool to use.
By tenesmus
Sep 11, 2007
"Mountain Project, I believe, is first and foremost an online guidebook. One line route descriptions without topos thrown into the mix where they subsequently are listed alphabetically for a single area with 50-60 1/2 pitch routes.... well, it makes it nearly useless or practically impossible for getting the climber to the route. If beta is so brief as to be vague at best, what is the point of reporting it at all? On the other hand, if the reporter really would rather not have other climbers find the route or the area, again, why report it at all? (please refrain from just taking up space!)"

I think James has a really great point. Seeing lots of ooo style descritions... not so fun. Greg - we really love your work and the routes you're putting up. Thank you for all the stuff you are doing out there. Its why we bought the topo and spread the word. Please keep up the good work.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2007
Sounds good to me. Bobby wouldn't mind if this main area description disappears anyway, so lets do this:

Someone(James?) create a brand new Hellgate overview area, and then add new empty areas underneath it for the various sub areas. At that point, i'll move the route descriptions to the proper places, and y'all can yell at me when i get one wrong.

And Greg, would you mind cleaning up the route descriptions, or would you mind if volunteers take over the route and add better descriptions?

Thanks
By James Garrett
Sep 12, 2007
Yes, I will try to get on it in the next couple of days. Andrew....that does sound like the best way to do it if it is OK with Gregorio.
As the new areas pop up, you can start sliding the routes into the correct slots. I won't delete anything, as that will no doubt really screw it up! Thanks
JG
By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Sep 12, 2007
Cool, I was thinking about this last week as well and wondered about the best way to revise an area into better subsections. Thanks for taking this on James and Andrew for moving things around. I too think it nice to see all the new activity and there are some good routes going in. It got me off my butt to start sniffing around for the first time in years. Better route descriptions especially with references to routes that are already in the book(s) would be helpful. Also be great if folks spell checked the entries as well. This is one of the few sites that can do it for you. We should take advantage of it.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 13, 2007
If no one minds, I am also happy to correct the spelling and capitalization in route descriptions. I would never change anyone's entries, but I am willing to be an editor. I won the Grand Forks county spelling bee in North Dakota way back in the day, so I am uniquely qualified(though maybe in a bad way).
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Sep 13, 2008
Grab the updated guide at IME in Salt lake. Proceds go to bolting fund. Great job to Mr. Martinez and anyone else involved with the development of the area. Enjoyed my time there.
By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Sep 30, 2008
I separated West Melting Mud climbs from the South facing climbs & weirdo & coo coo`s nest are not on these walls at all.there west of fossils from hell on main wall.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2010
Stop staring at the wall trying to figure everything out. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 15, 2010
Might want to mention that you are - or not - affiliated with Greg since your triple endorsement makes you sound very eager.
That being said I agree, the topo is good and opens up a world of new possibilities.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 21, 2011
Boissal, I wish I saw your note a year ago. I have no affiliation with or personal gain from Greg's map. I simply copied and pasted the note, since it seems most climbers don't know where to get a map.

In fact, I was at Hellgate again today, and I met with multiple groups. None of them had a map, and I answered the questions for everyone. Get the map, $10 is nothing, and it will be worth your while to be informed.